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THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY PRESENTED BY Hon. George. L- HiVflB 30 Jan. 1914 |
,_, [(Henry). Narrativ^of a Tour i:
Driainif Mexico, the United Stntes, and Cuba. 2 vols. 8»o. bootda, i, - )_ 4158-543, London, 1834. C/ > ■ ' ■ =
rHB NEW YORK PUBLIC UBRAR RBFBRBNGB DEPARTMENT
This book is under no eiroumstanee^ *^ taken f— »ni tke *• ••-«?'^*
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NARRATIVE
OF A
TOUR IN NORTH AMERICA..
NARRATIVE
OF A
TOUR IN NORTH AMERICA;
COMPRISING
MEXICO, •
THE MINES OF REAL DEL MONTE, THE UNITED STATES, AND
THE BRITISH COLONIES :
WITH AN EXCURSION
TO
THE ISLAND OF CUBA.
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IN A SERIES OF LETTERS, Written in the Years 1831-2.
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By H E N R ¥ ': 9CUliO RV Esq; "- "-
BARRISTER AT LjUy.
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IN TWO v^oi;u filE^S. ' - ^ ^ VOL. I.
LONDON: JAMES DUNCAN, PATERNOSTER ROW.
M DCCCXXXIV.
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LONDON:
J. MOVES, CA8TLB 8TRSBT, LSICBSrSB SQUARB.
TO
ROWLAND HODGSON, Esq.
OF HIGHFIELD, NEAR SHEFFIELD,
AS «
A HUMBLE BUT MOST SINCERE TRIBUTE TO EXALTED WORTH,
UNSULLIED INTEGRITY OF HEART,
AND THE MOST EXPANSIVE BENEVOLENCE :
AND IN TESTIMONY
OF DEEP GRATITUDE FOR MOST
VALUABLE BENEFITS BESTOWED,
KINDNESSES UNREMITTINGLY EVINCED,
AND OBLIGATIONS ZEALOUSLY CONFERRED,
- a -* " -
IS DEDIC^Tf D£ ! - - , . . .
BY HIS AFFECTIONATE /NE' Gfi^^tFVl ]^i»IE^D,
THE AUTHOR.
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PREFACE.
In venturing to submit the following Work to public notice, the Author is by no means influenced by the vain ambition of seeing himself in print, but is induced by the higher motive of endeavouring to do justice to a much -abused and slandered people, whose fate it has hitherto been to be mis- represented by those who ought to have cherished the very opposite feeling.
The voyage across the Atlantic was undertaken for the purpose of re-establish- ing a state of health somewhat impaired, as also of visiting the only quarter of the globe which the writer had not seen ; and in order to behold, among the wonders of the New World, the magnificent Cataract of Niagara.
Nothing was farther from the Author's intention than the publication of the re- marks that might be suggested in the
Vl PREFACE.
course of his excursion ; and had he not perceived an unhappy and unwarrantable tendency in American tourists, particularly in the authoress of a work entitled '* Do- mestic Manners of the Americans/' to sully the fair reputation, and to depreciajte what- ever is excellent in the rising greatness of our Transatlantic brethren, his observations would have been confined to the narrow sphere of his own family circle.
The Author feels it his bounden duty, at the same time, to make one honourable exception to the generality of American kavellers in the person of Mr. Stuart, who has recently published a work entitled '' Three Years in North America." In the liberal and enlightened views of this gentle- man, he acknowledges, with equal pleasure and candour, that he fully coincides ; and he is happy to bear his humble testimony to the general tone of good feeling, good taste, and fidelity, by which his observa- tions on the manners, principles, and in- stitutions, of the citizens of the United States, are characterised throughout.
PRSFACB^ Vll
With respect to the observations of Mrs. TroUope^ at once uncharitable as they are^ and illogical in their deductions, the Writer has felt it his duty to make some remarks, which will be found towards the latter part of the second volume.
It was not till some time after the Au^ thor's return to England that his reluctance to give publicity to the following Letters was overcome. They had been written (with some few alterations in reference to the press,) to various friends in England, during the hurried intervals of travelling — but little favourable to study and the refim^ ments of elegant composition — ^and without the smallest intention of having them sub- mitted to the public eye. He might, per- haps, be permitted to mention, as an ad^ ditional motive to his final determination, the pressing requests of private friends ; but as this apology has become rather conmion-place from repeated use, and ai§ the motive was in truth quite of secondary importance, he prefers resting on the more solid groimd of attempting to rescue from
VIU PRBFACE.
unmerited obloquy the character and in- stitutions of a. nation to which, as English- men, we ought to be attached as well by the ties of policy as by the rights of con- sanguinity.
The Author frankly acknowledges that he feels proud of the descendants of the mother-country, who, inheriting as they do an equal spirit and enterprise with their British ancestors; have done, and are still doing, more to extend the British name and language throughout the boundless regions of the western world than even their aristocratic progenitors. Instead of entertaining an ignoble jealousy respecting their rising greatness and importance, he willingly confesses that the pride of his honest feeling, at least on this point, is fully identified with theirs. He feels con- vinced that if, in the revolution of ages, the British Isles, like the empires of ancient times, should be destined to fall from the grandeur of their present position in Eu- rope, their inhabitants will find, on the shores of America, a second and more ex-
PBBFAGB. IX
tended Britain^ characterised by true En- gUsh feelings and associations^ amid which, like the fabled phoenix, they may rise again with renovated vigour from the ashes of the parent state. Long may the unex- ampled prosperity of the Anglo-American nation continue, and the progressive de« velopement of her resources be as auspicious as the happy result that has hitherto marked the commencement !
The Writer of the following Work lays not the smallest claim to literary merit. His statement is simple and unvarnished, and rests its principal credit on the faith- fiilness of its details, and the sentiments of honest feeling which have suggested its publication. This sentiment, entertained towards a community from many indi- viduals of which he has received marked hospitalities and kindness, in his endeavours to rectify the gross misrepresentations so wantonly indulged against them, has alone induced him to take up his pen, and has invariably guided its course through the following pages. It has been his ruling
X PRBFAtiB.
motive in preparing for the press, and will best sanction the publication which he now offers to the world.
Should this motive be fairly appreciated, as he trusts it will be, the Author has no doubt that he will receive from the hberahty of the public that credit for his work to which it will, in that case, be entitled. He is induced more particularly to hope fot this result from the consideration of its being the first attempt on which he has eyer ventured.
Though the tenour of the following Narrative is, from a sense of impartial justice, generally eulogistic of the people and institutions of the United States, yet the Author is not so bUnded by his ad- miration of their rapid and unequalled advancement to a high degree of civilisa- tion, as to be unconscious of their defects — since perfection belongs no more to com- munities than to individuals — and on which, where they have occurred to his observar tion, as in several instances of wanton misconduct in persons belonging to the
•> \
PREFACE. XI
state of Kentucky and others, he has in- dulged the freedom of remark.
If, in conclusion, the Author shall be so happy as to create in the minds of the citizens of the Union a better understand- ing of English feeling towards them, and shall have satisfied them that they are not to regard the thoughtless and malicious severity which some evil-minded persons have so unwarrantably exercised to their prejudice, as any criterion of British senti- ment, he will have fully and most gratefully gained his object ; and in the producing of so desirable a result will feel perfectly con- soled for the perhaps inefficient accomplish- ment of his design.
London^ January 18d4«
CONTENTS
OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.
LETTER I.
Voyage across the Atlantic — Emigrants — Hail-storms — Two Atheists on board — Banks of Newfoundland — Fogs — Icebergs — Fishing for Mackerel — Whales — News-boats
— Sandy Hook — New York Bay — Dinner at the City Hotel Page 1
LETTER II.
Description of New York — ^Tables of Comparative Population — ^Number of Newspapers published — City Hall — Excliange — Churches — Distribution of Religious Sects — ^The Battery
— New York Ladies — American Curiosity — The Navy- Yard— The Table d'H6te— Rapidity of Eating— Letter of Credit — Quick -sightedness of a Banker — Journey to Philadelphia — New Brunswick — Princeton — Picture of George III. — Delaware — Bordentown — Approach to Philadelphia Page 20
VOL. I. b
XIV CONTENTS.
LETTER III.
Cheapness of Travelling — Chesapeake and Delaware Canal — Chesapeake Bay — Baltimore — Equivocal Accommodation of American Coaches — Baltimore and Ohio Rail-road — Ingenious Principle of Locomotion — Discussion on Slavery — Washington — The Capitol — Houses of Congress — The Potomac — Alexandria — Mount Vernon, Country Seat of Washington — His Tomb in the Grounds — Museum at Alexandria — Relics of the Patriot Page 46
LETTER IV.
Fire-flies — Description of Baltimore — ^The Washington Monu- ment— Baltimore and Ohio Rail-road — Cathedml — Battle Monument — Charles Carroll — ^Vanity of the Americans — Tlje American Novelist — Description of Philadelphia — United States* Bank — Pennsylvania Bank — Comparative Tables of Population of Pennsylvania and Philadelphia — Girard's Bank — State House — Fairmount Waterworks — Pennsylvania Hospital — The Navy-yard —The large Ship Pennsylvania — New Penitentiary — Systems of Prison Discipline — Churches, &c. &c. — Canals Page 71
LETTER V.
Bordentown — Joseph Buonaparte — Sudden Change of Tem- perature— Climate of the States — ^Annivei-sary of American Independence — Universal Rejoicings on the occasion — Dinners — Processions, Fireworks, &c. — Beauty of the American Ladies — Calashes to conceal their Charms — Museum at New York — Passage up the Hudson to West Point — Military Academy at West Point Page 109
OOWTEWTS. XV
LETTER VI.
Pope — Invention of Letters — Cadmus — Catskill Mountain — Pine Orchard — Splendid View thence — Fine Temperature on the Mountain — Singular Appearance of the Fog — Kaaterskill Falls — Corduroy Road — Town of Hudson — Lebanon Page 138
LETTER VII.
Society of Shakers — ^Their extraordinary Doctrines — Ann Lee, their Founder — Forbid Matrimony — Believe that Christ has appeared a second Time — ^That the '* Bride'' alluded to in Revelations was Ann Lee — ^That the Millennium has commenced — ^Their Tenets respecting Baptism — The Holy Sacrament — The Resurrection and Day of Judgment — Believe that the latter have already commenced — Their Faith as to the Perfectibility of Man — Extravagance in their Religious Ceremonies — Dancing the principal Worship in their Churches — Quotations from Scripture in support of it Page 152
LETTER VIII.
Leave New Lebanon — Albany — Erie Canal — Patroon of Al- bany— Prejudice against Entails — Anecdote on the Subject — Cross the Hudson — Horse Tow-boat — City of Troy — Fondness of the Americans for classical Names — Examples of it — Arrive at the Springs — Ballston — Saratoga — Sche- nectady— Proceed on the Erie Canal — ^Valley of the Mo- hawk— Indians fast disappearing — Little Falls — German Flats — Danger from the Canal-bridges — Utica — Trenton
XVI CONTENTS.
Falls — Melancholy Occurrence there— Journey to Auburn — Dreadful Roads — Carriage breaks down — Tears and Lamentations — Tribe of Oneida Indians — Syracuse — Au- burn— Bumps and Bruises Page 1 77
LETTER IX.
State Prison of Auburn — Admirable System of Discipline— Different Principle to the Penitentiary at Philadelphia — Thirty Women a match for Seven Hundred Men! — Cayuga Lake — Specimen of Democratical Equality — Seneca Lake — Geneva — Jemima Wilkinson, the Enthusiast — Canan- daigua — New Settlements just emerging from the Forest — Singular Appearance of them — Mode of destroying the Trees — Their melancholy Aspect — Rochester-— Sam Patch — Meet some agreeable Travellers — Temperance Societies — Interesting Details of them — Lockport — The most splendid Works there on the Canal Pogc 204
LETTER X.
Falls of Niagara — Description of them — British, or Horse- Shoe Fall — ^American Fall — Impossibility of doing them justice — their Height — Comparison with the Pyramids of Egypt — General Whitney's Hotel — Military Titles in Ame- rica— Ferry Staircase — Goat Island — Biddle Staircase — Sam Patch's leap into the Gulf— View from the centre of the River — Whirlpool and Devil's Hole — Lewiston — Queens- town — Comments on Captain Hall's Work on the States — Forsyth's — Visit behind the Falls — Scene by Moonlight.
Fage 235
f.
CONTENTS. XVll
LETTER XI.
Boffiilo — Lake Erie — Source of the Niagara — Western Lakes — ^Welland Canal — Noble and useful Work — Launch of Vessel over the Falls — Return to Niagara — Final Adieu — Cross Lake Ontario — York, Capital of Upper Canada — Canada Land Company — New Settlements — Guelph — Goderich — Price of Land, &c. — Country most eligible to Emigrants — Imposts and Duties — Expense of Passage to Emigrants — Constitution of Upper Canada — Kingston — The Rideau Canal — ^The St. Lawrence — ^The Thousand Islands — Rapids of the St. Lawrence-^Arrival at Montreal.
Page 269
LETTER XIT.
Description of Montreal — the dominant Religion — School Societies — Island of St. Helena — Passage to Quebec — Description of Quebec — Cape Diamond — Heights and Plains of Abraham — Falls of Montmorency — Indian Village ofLorette — Ceremonies of Indian Marriage — The War-Whoop and Dance — French Canadians — Falls of the Chaudi^re — Catholic Cathedral — Museums — Monument to Wolfe and Montcalm — Constitution of Lower Canada — Climate — Fruits ..Page 300
. LETTER XIII.
Arrival at Quebec of the Royal William Steam-Boat — Embark in her for Nova Scotia — Passage down the St. Lawrence — Miramichi — Dreadful Conflagration — ^Arrive at Halifax — Windsor, Nova Scotia — the College there — Annapolis — Condition of the Soil — Bay of Fundy — St. John's, New
VOL. I. C
XVlll CONTENTS.
Brunswick — Passage to Eastport — Frontier Town of the United States — Bay of Passamaquoddy — Curious Mode of Fishing — Passage to Boston — Lady deranged from Sea- sickness— Description of Boston — Origin of the Settlement
— Navy -Yard — Bunker*s Hill — Curious Rencontre — Manufactories of Lowell — American Skill in driving.
Fage 333
LETTER XIV.
Cambridge — Harvard University — Public Schools — Sweet Auburn — Consecration of a Cemetery — Fresh Ponds — Ice — Extensive TraflSc in it — The Fine Arts at Boston — Nahant — Quincy Granite Quarries — Churches — State of Religion — Depart for the White Mountains — Salem — Notorious for Witchcraft — Oriental Museum — Portland
— Quality of the Land — the Tariff — Floating Bridge — Climate — Disputed Territory — Gardiner — Banks of the Kennebec — Interesting Family — Traits of Character.
Fage 370
LETTER XV.
Augusta — Cause of greater Beauty in American Towns — Paris, State of Maine — Lose my Baggage — Cultivation of Pumpkins — Travel in a Wagon — Reach the White Moun- tains— The Notch — Appalling Destruction of a whole Family — Fearful Avalanches — The Carriage breaks down
— Haverhill — Banks of the Connecticut — Conversation in Coach — Revivals — Religious Opinions — Church Discipline — Hanover — Royalton — iSulf Road — Election of Judges
— Freemasonry — Burlington — Lake Champlain — Lake George Fage 405
CONTENTS. XIX
LETTER XVI.
American Court of Chancery — Wigs and Gowns — Chancellor's Salary — Forensic Eloquence — Formation of a Literary Society — Ex-President Adams — New York Deaf and Dumb Asylum — Depart for New Orleans — Canvass-back Ducks — Curious Invention — Potomac — ^Arrive in Vir^nia — Frede- ricksburg— Horrible Roads — Republican Equality — Singu- lar Mode of Farming in Virginia — First SetUement of the State — Charlottesville — The Blue Mountains — Staunton — Separate from my Party — Business and Pleasure incompa- tible— Magnificence of the Weyer's Cave — Extraordinary Impudence of a Democrat Landlord Page 434
NARRATIVE
OF A
TOUR
IN
NORTH AMERICA.
LETTER I.
Voyage across the Atlantic — Emigrants — Hail-storms — Two Atheists on board — Banks of Newfoundland — Fogs — Ice- bergs — Fishing for Mackerel — Whales — News-boats — Sandy Hook — New York Bay — Dinner at the City Hotel.
New York, United States of America,
5th June, 1831. MT DEAR FRIEND9
In fulfilment of the promise which I made to you, on quitting England for the shores of the New World, to give you a faithful naiTative of my adventures^ I now draw forth my best- .^ pointed Bramah, on the continent of America, in order to redeem my pledge. And as I know your cariosity ranges over the sea as over the
VOL. I. B
2 EMIGRANTS.
land; and that a voyage across the great deep will have more of novelty for you than an excursion by land, I shall commence my letter by giving you a slight sketch of my passage across the Atlantic.
I sailed from Portsmouth, on the 2d of May, on board of the Hannibal, one of the New York packet-ships, which, for accommodation, elegance, excellent fare, kind treatment, and good seaman- ship, are quite equal to any ships that navigate the ocean. Our vessel was something short of 500 tons, and was commanded by Captain He- bard, a very attentive and obliging American ; and our society on board consisted of about twenty- four cabin passengers, making up the full com- plement for which berths could be supplied. In addition, however, to the company here enumer- ated, there were about a hundred unhappy emi- grants crowded together in the steerage, who were hastening to seek that better lot in a strange and distant land which they had failed to realise in their own. They presented an interesting, but mournful, picture of a population redundant be- yond the means of support; driven away from country and friends, through the resistless influ- ence of moral and physical causes, to seek sub- sistence and a home perchance in the wilderness.
Our voyage commenced under rather inau- spicious circumstances ; since, in addition to the adverse wind with which we left the harbour of
HAIL-8T0BMS. 3
Portsmouth^ we encountered, in the Channel^ a succession of the most violent and tempestuous hail-storms that I ever remember to have seen. The deck of the ship was so completely and pro- fusely covered with hail and snow, drifted in some places into large heaps^ that the gentlemen acted over again the days of their schoolboy feats, and pelted each other with snow-balls. Such weather as this on the 2d of May, and off the mild and temperate coast of Devon, excited in no small degree our surprise, and compelled us to wrap our cloaks around us, when in truth we might have expected to throw them aside altogether.
The sea, as you are aware, agrees with me extremely well, having traversed every ocean on the globe without having once experienced the dreadful sensation of sea-sickness ; dreadful, ac- cording to the report of others, and which I am, as with respect also to the toothache, much happier to learn at second than at first hand. The boundless mass of waters, too, on which I was just entering, awfully magnificent and pas- singly wonderful as it is, always rivets my attention, whether sailing on its blue expanse or sauntering along its shores, and ever presents to my mind an unfailing source of grateful and sublime contem- plation. I never behold this glorious object with- out having the beautiful passage of the Psalmist most forcibly recalled to my memory: — '^ They that go down to the sea in ships, that do business
4 ATHEISTS ON BOARD.
in great waters ; these see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep. For he command- eth, and raiseth the stormy wind, which lifteth up the waves thereof. They mount up to the heaven, they go down again to the depths ; their • soul is melted because of trouble. They reel to and fro, and stagger like a drunken man, and are at their wit's end. Then they cry unto the Lord in their trouble, and he bringeth them out . of their distresses. He maketh the storm a calm, so that the waves thereof are still. Then are they glad because they be quiet ; so he bringeth them unto their desired haven. Oh that men would praise the Lord for his goodness, and for his won- derful works to the children of men !"
In consequence, therefore, of my entire free- dom from all indisposition at sea, joined to the fine weather which is in general prevalent at this season of the year, you might suppose my passage to New York to have been an agreeable one. Ab- stracting from consideration some painful solicit- udes, unconnected with the voyage, such, indeed, I found it to be, in comparison with what I had anticipated. I should have enjoyed, however, in a still higher degree, the bustle and excitement around me — absorbing attention, otherwise de- voted to less pleasing contemplations — had there not been present in our little society two of the most confirmed and daring Atheists that it was ever my misfortune to meet. Other infidels,
ATHEISTS ON BOARD. 5
whom I have met in my various travels through the world, were, in comparison with these, cha- racterised hy decency and moderation of expres- sion, and even tenderness of allusion with respect to sacred things and the existence of a Supreme Being. Their principal pleasure appeared to con- sist in denying, with fearful tokens of defiance and ribald mockery, the very being of the mighty God who had created them, and who had endowed the mind of the elder of the two with a strength of intellect, and with a germ of natural talent, which, if exercised aright, would have elevated their owner to eminence and respectability. But God's bounty to him has been most awfully per- verted ! For what is the worth of the brightest intellect that ever was matured in the mind of man, if it lead its besotted possessor to abjure the very God who formed him? His zeal, too, in particular, for making proselytes, equally exceeded all that I had previously witnessed in the conduct of similar persons ; since, in addition to his ha- ranguing the steerage passengers on the falsity of the Scriptures, and the non-existence of a superin- tending Providence, his attempts on the youthfal minds of two unprotected schoolboys, just fresh from the pious instruction of their tutor, and blooming, as it were, into early virtue, aroused my just and deep indignation.
I bad several times a discussion with him, in
■AN atheist's QOD.
the earlier part of the voyage, on various religions subjects ; but I soon found it absolutely necessary to cease all reference to these interesting topics, inasmuch as my objections to his desolating creed and doctrines, however mildly enforced, only served to exasperate his hostility to the proposition of an over-ruling Providence, and of the authenticity of the Bible, in a tenfold degree. This hostility was, at the same time, conveyed in such terms of bitter scorn and blasphemous expression, as to drive every one immediately from his presence^ He seems to have been wofuUy neglected when a boy, having been educated apparently without the slightest consciousness that he possessed a soul.
He stated, in the course of conversation one day, that the only god he was ever taught to worship, was the god Neptune ; and that, during a voyage which he was making on a certain oc- casion, when about seven years of age, he was accustomed to go down on his knees, every day, before the captain of the vessel, in order to say his prayers to Neptune, and beseech the deity of the waters not to drown him. He declared that he was never taught to believe in any other object of adoration, and that whenever afterwards he was in any kind of trouble or affliction, he used to kneel down and supplicate the god of the sea !
About the 20th of May we found ourselves on the banks of Newfoundland, the very region of
BANKS OF NEWPOrNDLAND. 7
fog and vapour^ and in comparison with which, the generality of London fogs are a simple mist. The cold here was excessive^ and even a great-coat closely buttoned; but ill kept out the penetrating damp : indeed, the temperature of the air was absolutely freezing. This extreme cold, in ad- dition to the fog that more or less constantly prevails on the banks, is chiefly caused by the numerous icebergs which, for several months after the breaking up of the northern winter, pass over them on their way to the southward, affecting the atmosphere to a very considerable distance, according to the quarter from which the wind may happen to blow. Though we were rather too early in the season for these dreaded visitants, since they are not frequently seen before the month of June; yet as the earliness of seasons varies, and as exceptions to general rules are quite arbi- trary in their occurrence, we found it necessary to keep a good look out a-head, and occasionally felt somewhat anxious when the mist was so dense that we could not even see the ship's length in any direction. Had there been an iceberg in our course, going as we were at the rate of eight and nine knots an hour, it would have been physically impossible to have been aware of the danger till the crash of the vessel against the artificial rock had brought us into destructive contact.
A few years ago, the Liverpool, one of the
■WHECK ON AN ICEBEBG.
New York packet-ships, having a number of n sengers on board, was lost on the banks of S foundland, under the melancholy circumsta to which I have alluded. The cabin-bell hOC few momenta before rung for dinner, whena ill-fated ship struck against an iceberg, i concealed from view by an impenetrable fog, ; in less than half an hour she filled with i and went down. The passengers and crew, fortunately, had just time to save themselvefl the ship's boals ; and, after encountering fea perils, and sufiering severe hardshipa, the] length reached Newfoundland, upwards of J miles from the place where they were wreclBj a. poor little cliild, the daughter of the oulyl passenger on board, having died of i exposure.
The eshalations around these shoals frequM assume very singular appearances, I witnet in particular, one day, the most extraordinary ■ perfect illusion of land that could poesiblyl formed, in the shape of what is called a f< The mist had condensed into deep and broad i and masses on the edge of the horizon, as cld| resembling terra firma as any thing short ( reality, and which so completely deceived fl second-mate, that he declared if it were not lt| he had never beheld it in his life. The capi however, on being appealed to, assured i
TREAT OF FRESH MACKEREL. 9
were at least 150 miles distant from it, as the result fully proved to be the case.
We had flattered ourselves with the hope, on approaching the banks, of having a delicate treat of fresh fish, as they abound with the finest cod in the world, and are resorted to during the sum- mer by innumerable fishing-boats, of which the owners make a very good livelihood by exercising their craft of catching and curing them, as well for the American as for European markets. Our hopes, however, were in this respect (like too many others, and more fondly cherished) doomed to disappointment; for, though we cast out our lines, on the falling away of the wind, to the depth of eighty fathoms, we found, in consequence of the drifting of the ship, and our having been driven too far towards the southern edge of the bank, that we could not reach the bottom. We were, nevertheless, amply compensated when we arrived on the St. George's Bank, as we caught here a number of very fine mackerel, which, being dressed immediately, proved as delicious a honne bouche as ever captivated the palate of a London alderman. The shoals of these fish were here truly immense ; covering large portions of the sea, and strongly rippling the otherwise tranquil waters by their sportive movements on its surface, as if they had been agitated by a powerful breeze. The greediness with which they swallowed the
b2
10 WHALSS.
bait was surprising ; for the instant the line was dropped in the water, was it again drawn up with a fine mackerel writhing at the end of it. Our fishing operations continued for some time; for our '^ beauteous breeze/' as an Irish acquaintance of mine used to express it^ had bidden us adieu, to go in quest of other adventures ; and, with the exception of the partial ripplings caused by the fish, the sea was as delightfiiUy placid as was the lovely lake of Killamey when I cast the part- ing glance over it last year, on quitting its interest- ing shores for the romantic rocks of GlengariflF. And such is life! — calm and tempest — sunshine and shade ; and too often when there is repose without, there is a storm within !
I need hardly tell you, that of the larger in- habitants of the great deep, such as the whale, grampus, shark, and others similar, we saw numerous specimens ; some of them basking in the sunshine, others heaving their huge forms above the billows, and spouting forth water like so many fountains. These are interesting objects at all times, but more especially when launched forth into the distant ocean, since they serve as so many reliefs to the unvarying monotony of endless sea and sky. The circumstance, however, that surprised me the most in my passage across the Atlantic, was the extreme coldness of the at- mosphere during so generally fine a month as that
LAND IN BIGHT. 1 1
of May, and which continued until we were almost in sight of the shores of America. Coats and cloaks were in universal requisition ; and, hesides our exterior clothing, we found it necessary to make good use of our legs in pacing up and down the decks, in order to obtain a comfortable degree of warmth.
The contrast which my voyage to Madeira exhibited, on going out to India some years ago, was extraordinary. I left the Downs in January, shivering under the double covering of a great-coat and a cloak : the Thames was frozen solidly over, and a well-heated stove blazing in the cuddy, round which every one was crowding and shaking; when, in ten short days, oflF the island of Madeira, coats and cloaks were thrown aside; the under coat even was exchanged for a calico jacket, such as is worn in the East ; the stove was unshipped, and stowed away for another English winter ; and we inarched forth on the deck without hat and gloves, luxuriating in all the delicious warmth and sun- shine of that unequalled climate.
At length, on the 3d of June, to the universal joy of all on board, and especially so to that of the poor emigrants, who, in consequence of their numbers, had been obliged to be packed like herrings in a barrel, "land" was called out by the sailor at the mast-head, and which, in the course of a couple of hours more, became visible
12 NEWS-BOATS p
from the deck. Never having seen America^ I hailed the apparition of the new world — for still the distant hills were overspread by a mysterious shadowiness — with a degree of delightful interest that amply compensated for the regret with which I saw the last sunny spot of old Albion's chalky cliffs vanish from my view*
I had not yet touched American ground, being at this time a number of miles from the coast, and before the pilot had come on board to take us across the bar, and steer us to New York; when I received the first forcible impression of that ardent thirst for European intelligence, and of that ceaseless and universal enterprise by which the people of the United States are so justly dis- tinguished, and whence they derive at once a large fund of honourable credit to their spirit, and of commercial emolument to their exertions. The circumstance that excited this, was our being boarded, while still out at sea, by a couple of news-boats, to obtain the very latest information from Europe, especially from England, and to receive papers and letters which might be brought by us. These little schooners are kept, at very considerable expense, by some of the principal proprietors of journals in New York, in order to furnish the earliest possible knowledge of the state of European markets, commerce, and poli- tics, to the American public. They are constantly
SANDY HOOK, 13
plying outside the bar, till they shall have gained^ by a fresh arrival, the required information^ when, with every press of sail, they hasten their return to the city, where, frequently, the news brought is published, and circulated, before the ship has passed the bar, twenty-six miles below it.
There not being sufficient depth of water, in consequence of ebb-tide, to carry us across the shoal, we came to anchor for the night ; and on the following morning, the 4th of June, we got under weigh for New York, the commercial queen of Transatlantic cities. The shore about Sandy Hook, where is stationed the first light-house pre- viously to entering the bay, and the heights and line of hills about Neversing, in the neighbour- hood of it, are very picturesque ; but by no means rising to that lofty altitude of mountain grandeur which I had fully expected to see on approaching the shores of the new world. Why I had so imagin- ed, I can hardly say, except being aware that nature, in this quarter of the globe, presented features of a bolder aspect, generally speaking, than are to be seen in any other portion of it. So indeed she does ; but, as I now ascertained, not precisely on the identical coast on which I had just arrived. These heights are decorated by a diversified vegetation ; and here is seen a prolific growth of handsome trees, flourishing in great luxuriance, and seldom observed on the coasts of Europe, — a circumstance
14 QUARANTINE OBOUND.
which we are accustomed to attribute to the noxious influence of a salt atmosphere.
Having passed Sandy Hook, we steered for the " Narrows," through which lies the passage to New York bay, formed by the close approxi- mation of Staten and Long Islands; the shores of the former exhibiting every variety of beau- tiful scenery and elegant undulations of hills, studded with pretty villas, and embellished with richly verdant and numerous groves. At the point of Staten island, the hospital, and telegraph station, present picturesque and interestiug objects to the eye. On the opposite shore of Long Island we passed two or three strong batteries, well con- structed, and judiciously placed to defend the entrance to the bay; and after having cleared the Narrows, we were " brought to " opposite the Quarantine ground, for the purpose of having our pulses felt by the doctor, and medical permission to proceed to our destination. This place offers to the view of all those on whom the doctor does not lay violent hands, and compel to remain in " durance vile" till his infection, real or supposed, be removed, a truly delightful landscape; rising from the sea, with a beautiful slope, to a consi- derable elevation; and crowned by a handsome edifice, overlooking various other n^at structures beneath it.
From hence is beheld, in the distance, the
BAT OF KBW YORK. 15
spires and steeples of New York, with its forest of masts towering aloft, and decorated with a thousand flags and streamers; while an infinite number of vessels, schooners, and boats of all nzes and forms, many of them very elegantly boilt, and steamers crowded with passengers, rushing along at the rate of twelve and four- teen miles an hour, fill up the animating scene. Here the bay lies open to your view in all its lovely expansion : and though I certainly do not think it equal to the Bay of Naples, to which I have heard it assimilated with all the claims of a proud competitor, yet, with the exception of two or three that admit of no rivalry, I regard it as one of the most beautiful in the world.* But, as Mrs. Malaprop says, ^^ comparisons are odo- riferous," and it is generally the safer way to view what is the subject of observation on its own abstract merits: in this light the American bay will rise to a high degree on the scale of natural scenery.
We now steered parallel to the shore of Long Island, whose banks gradually develop a more prominent beauty as you approach the city ; and
• The noble altitude of one or two of the mountains and mountain ridges which characterise the Italian bay, throw into comparative tameness the less elevation of the American one; fine and delightful, nevertheless, as are many of its truly inter- esting features.
f
16 PASSAGE MONET.
passing close by Governor's Island, which lie«L like an emerald on the sunny surface of the bay, we at last saw the termination of our voyage oP" thirty-three days, accomplished in health an A safety, by coming to an anchor close to the town. And here, I confess, I could not help exclaiming to myself, thus early in my acquaintance with th& people of the United States, and stranger as I was in their country : '* This is, beyond doubt, a great, a powerful, and a prosperous nation ! " and I must acknowledge that I felt a sentiment of honest pride and exultation, that from so inauspicious a commencement as that which marked the settle- ment of the first colonists in this country, there had sprung up, in such a short space of time, a race of men that so obviously reflected credit on their origin, and that so clearly identified themselves in all the elements of moral activity, enterprise, and spirit, with that country which I hold dearest upon earth.
We had now traversed the watery element for a distance of about 3600 miles, being the space that lies between the two cities of London and New York. The passage-money to America is thirty-five guineas, including wine and every requisite comfort procurable on ship-board, not omitting even luxuries; since, among the latter items, is to be enumerated the unexpected deli- cacy of champagne, which is given twice a week.
DINNER ON LANDING. 17
Oq retaming to England the charge is reduced to thirty guineas, in consequence of the greater expedition with which the passage is accom- P&hed, from the prevalence of westerly winds ; ^ outward-bound voyage being usually efiV^ted ^ about five weeks, and the return voyage in twenty-three days : it has, however, l>cen some- ftnes completed in fifteen.
Before I close my letter, as you may l>c in- clined to know with what appetite I eat my first dinner on shore, after being cooped up for five Weeks on ship-board, I shall give you u bill of fcre, to satisfy you that there is no danger of my starving in the States, and as offering the 1>est possible pledge for the future. The public dinner being over at the City hotel, — where I took up my quarters, and which I found of a superior order, though swarming with countless numliers, like bees in a hive, — I accepted the invitation of a gentleman and his lady, who came ovos m the same ship with me, to dine in their private room. In the course of an hour we had placed before us, at the voluntary discretion of our worthy host of the hotel, the following savoury and delicate viands, several of which had but just come into season : A tureen of real turtle, a very inviting loin of Iamb, a dish of fine trout, another of young chickens, half-a-dozen snipes, a piece of roast beef, new potatoes, delicious peas, still more
delicious asparagus ; and the whole delicatelyg
nisbed by two or three kinds of fruit-piea, tog( with preserves, and strawberries and cream. array of coaxing dishes for three seafaring 1 sons, was of course served up with the most o dox arrangement of the culinary art, the ordd which I leave to your own imagination; and this dainty fare, half a dollar only (or 2s. ! was the sum total demanded for each tndividifl
I leave you to suppose with, what i relished our repast, with appetites sharpened the pure sea-breezes, and craving for fresh ] visions. Superior, however, if possible, to 8 rest, was the iced wine and iced water, which j Aoierican friends possess in greater perfection fl any other nation I have ever visited ; and whicl with the thermometer at 90°, I found most grate- ful to the palate. The ice is pellucid, and beau- tiful as the clearest crystal ; the winters in the northern states being so severe, that they collect it ad libitum in huge and solid masses, without being obliged, like the inhabitants of the " mother country," as is sometimes the case, to send for it to the North Pole. After dinner (not without reason, you will think), I strolled down Broad- way, the finest street in New York, to the Battery, where I enjoyed the delightful air from the bay, as the evening was very sultry, among the verdant trees that adorn the margin of its waters, rendered
THE SUPPER-BELL. 19
more than usually refreshing to one who has only had sea and sky to look on for a long month. I then returned, and went to bed, heedless of the flapper-bell, that was sounding its gastronomic warning in the erect ears of the greedy gour- mands. And now, for fear I should interrupt either of these essential operations with regard to yourself, I will have mercy on your perhaps wearied patience, and bid you, for the present, adieu!
20
LETTER II.
Description of New York — Tables of Comparative Popular tion — Number of Newspapers published — City Hall— - Exchange — Churches — Distribution of Religious Sects — The Battery — New York Ladies — American Curiosity — The Navy-Yard—The Table d'Hote— Rapidity of Eating — Letter of Credit — Quick-sigh tedness of a Banker — Journey to Philadelphia — New Brunswick — Princetofn — Picture of George IIL. — Delaware — Bordentown — Ap- proach to Philadelphia.
Philadelphia, 12th June, 1831. MY DEAR FRIEND,
I NOW resume the thread of my narrative where it broke off in my letter addressed to you from New York, and which had conducted you across the Atlantic to that place. I proceed to give you a few notices respecting this, the metropolitan city of the Union ; for such, in a commercial point of view, it must essentially be considered ; possessing, as it does, greater natural and artificial advantages than any other town in the States.
New York is situated on the Island of Man- hattan, at the confluence of the Hudson and East
SITUATION OF KEW YORK. 21
'Rivers; the island extending about fifteen miles in length, with an average breadth of a mile and a halfy or two miles. It lies in 40 deg. 40 min. of north latitude, and was originally settled by the Dutch in 1616, being called by them New Amsterdam ; the historical details of which are humorously and admirably given, by Washington Irving, in " Knickerbocker's History of New York." In process of time, however, and as the result of various causes, it changed masters, and fell under the dominion of the English ; and you do not require to be informed by what course of events it was afterwards forcibly transferred to its present possessors. The city lies on the southern point of the island, running along the western shore of the Hudson to the extent of nearly two miles, and along that of the East River, between three and four. The natural advantages by which it is surrounded *are not excelled, if equalled, by any city on the face of the globe. Flanked, on each side, by the two splendid rivers I have mentioned ; one of them being navi- gable to the sea, and the other, through the auxi- liary medium of the Erie Canal, bearing the rich freights of the capital into the very heart of the state ; lying, too, on the margin of an extensive and noble bay, across whose waters you sweep onward to the ocean in the short distance of twenty- two miles, — it makes good the claim which it asserts, at once with
22
POPULATION OF NEW TOBK.
justice and with pride^ of being the commendal queen of the western world.
To afford you some insight into the com- parative population at different periods of this city, as well as of the state to which it belongs, both of which you will perceive have advanced , most rapidly within the last fifty years, I give you the two following authenticated statements.
Population of the City of New York,
In 1696 .... 4,302 In 1800 .... 60,489
1731 8,628
1756 .... 10,381
1773 21,876
1786 .... 23,614
1790 33,131
1810 1820 1825 1830
. . 96,373
.. 123,706
.. 167,059
.. 203,007
Population at different Periods of the State of
New York.
In 1701 .. 30,000 1731 .. 50,395 1749 . . 100,000 1771 .. 163,338 1825.. 1,616,458
In 1790 .. 340,120 1800 .. 586,050 1810 . . 959,049 1820.. 1,372,812 1830.. 1,913,508
Increase.
1790-1800 . . 245,930 1800-1810 .. 372,999 1810-1820 .. 413,763 1820-1830 . . 540,696
Slaves. 21,324 20,613 15,017 10,088 46
By this latter table you will observe, with much gratification, that, to the honour of New York, slavery has been abolished within the limits of its jurisdiction.
As the Americans, from the naturg of their government, are all politicians, from the president
\
NUMBER OF NEWSPAPEBS PUBLISHED. 23
down to the ostler of an inn, you will feel inter- ested, perhaps, in knowing the amount of political information communicated to the sovereign peo- ple throughout this city and state, and which I here subjoin.
The number of newspapers published in the state, according to Williams's New York Annual Roister, amounted in 1831 to 239; 54 in the city of New York, and 185 in other parts of the state.
Number of Sheets issued from the fifty-four Presses in the City of New York annually.
11 daily papers (average 1,455 each in one day) , . 4,944,000
10 semi-weekly do .... 1 ,880 1,955,200
26 weekly do 2,600,000
6 semi-monthly and 1 monthly 36,800
Total number of sheets printed annually . . 9,536,000 Estimated number (185 papers) in other parts ofthe state 5,000,000
Total 14,536,000
With respect to the city of New York, it struck me, I confess, as much superior to what I had anticipated, as well in the dimensions of the streets, the neatness and elegance of the houses, as in the beauty and nobleness of many of its public edifices. Broadway, which is the finest street in the town, possesses an appearance highly imposing, and extends three miles in
I
24 CITT HALL.
i
lengthy with a general breadth of eighty feet. It is lined with handsome buildings, and decorated with shady trees and attractive shops through a considerable portion of that distance; some of which might serve to adorn the metropolitan cities of other countries.
Of the public buildings, one that comes into the most prominent notice, is the City Hall, lying on Broadway, and of which the front is formed of white marble. I have several times heard oIh jections made to this structure, but have esteemed the taste of such critics more fastidious than jiif- dicious. The circumstance most to be criticised and to be regretted is, that the reverse face of the building should have been constructed of a dif- ferent material, being fronted with a dark-coloured stone, which, by being equally presented to the eye in passing down the street, as the other in passing up, looks bad from the violent con- trast. However, in my humble judgment, it is an elegant edifice ; and, taking the ensemble inside and out, reflects very considerable credit on the architectural skill and public spirit of the citizens of New York. The interior of it is principally appropriated to the various courts of law, richly and tastefully fitted up ; and around the chamber in which is held the mayor's court, are ranged numerous portraits, of Washington, of different governors who have presided over the state, and
THE EXCHAHOE. 25
fyf many of the commanding officers, both naval and military, who have signalised themselves in the service of their country.
Another building that attracted my attention, as displaying at once taste and splendour, is the Exchange, in Wall-street, leading from Broadway, and which also is constructed of white marble. The front is adorned by a handsome portico, sup- ported by Ionic columns of elegant proportions, through which you pass to a noble and spacious room where the body of merchants assemble, and is surmounted by a dome, casting an agreeable light below. Here the commerce of the world is conned over ; and, to an idle man, a half hour or two can be pleasantly disposed of, in very sultry or rainy weather, by promenading through its ample dimensions.
Among the public structures I must not forget to enumerate the churches, with respect to which I am aware you will be more interested than as regards the others ; and you will, therefore, be happy to hear that there are about one hundred of them, comprehending places of worship of all denominations, within the precincts of the city. Of these, St. Paul's church, also in Broadway, is considered one of the best specimens of archi- tecture in the town ; the front, likewise, being ornamented by a portico of the Ionic order, sup- ported by four fluted pillars of a dark-coloured
VOL. I. c
26 TRINITY CHURCH.
stone^ and surmounted by a statue of St. PauL Lower down^ on the same side of the street, is Trinity church, constructed of stone^ in the Gothic style^ and arresting the attention of the stranger from a certain singularity in its appearance. I allude principally, however, to this church, where I attended divine worship on the first Sunday after my arrival, in order to bring to your notice the inscription on a tomb, erected in the burial- ground surrounding the church, by which my sympathy with its unknown yet interesting writer was in no small degree excited. It is at onoe simple and brief, but touchingly pathetic. The tomb is of an oblong form, covered by a plain stone, on which the following words are deeply indented :
MY MOTHER. THE TRUMPET SHALL SOUND, AND THE DEAD SHALL RISE !
These are the only characters engraved upon it, but it breathes a language that must speak to every heart. " If there is one inscription," says an elegant author, alluding to this simple and afiecting record, and whose expressions I quote, as being much superior to any that I could furnish myself: " If there is one inscription in the thou- sand languages that are or have been of earth, fitted to retain its sublime meaning through every period of time up to the resurrection morning, it
p
EPISCOPACY. 27
^ 18 this. The writer seems aware that names would be forgotten, and titles fade from the memory of the world. He therefore engraved the name by which he first knew her who gave him birth, on the stone — and the dearest of all names, that of mother, shall send a thrill through the heart of every one who may ever lean over this monu- mental pile. If any shall wish to know further of her who had a child to engrave her most endearing name upon a rock, he is sublimely referred to the sounding of the trumpet and the rising of the dead, when he may know all."
Trinity church is attached to the Episcopalian doctrines and forms of worship, and where the Bishop of New York generally preaches when in the city. Of this ecclesiastical dignity you will, no doubt, equally with myself, be surprised to hear as existing in this land of purely republican insti- tutions. It struck me forcibly as arguing well for the people of the United States ; since it evinces a national respect for sacred things, as distinguished from temporal afiairs, highly creditable to them. It demonstrates a proper veneration for the insti- tutions and ceremonies of a church, of whatever denomination it may be, even though clothed in the garb of aristocratic distinction ; and which lat- ter, in reference to every thing else, is a principle forbidden and denounced by the universal spirit of their democratic form of government.
28 RELIGIOUS SECTS.
The interior of this church, as also the external of it^ is handsome : it contains a number of ele- gant and tasteful monuments^ of which one at the altar commemorates the deaths by shipwreck, some years ago, at Sandy Hook, ** of a son of the Earl of Morton, peer of Scotland, and his unfortunate companions/'
In order to give you some idea of the divisions into which the religious world is divided, in this state, I present you with the following statement from the *' Quarterly Register of the American Education Society, for February 1831 :" — The Presbyterians have 6 synods, 29 presbyteries, 687 churches, 486 ministers, 124 licentiates, and 54,093 communicants. The Dutch Reformed, 148 churches. 111 ministers, 7 licentiates, and 8,672 communicants. The Associate Synod of North America, 15 congregations, 13 ministers, and 1,668 communicants. The Methodists, 73,174 members. The Baptists, 549 churches, 387 mi- nisters, and 43,565 communicants. The Episco- palians, 129 ministers. The Lutherans, 27 minis- ters, and 2,973 communicants. The Roman Catholics, Friends, and Universalists, are con- siderably numerous. The Unitarians have 6 societies and 2 ministers ; and there are some Shakers and some United Brethren.
To economise, however, as well your time as my own paper, by not dilating too much on any
PUBLIC PROXSXADB. 29
one sabject, to the exclusion of so many others which are continually passing in leTiew before me, I shall now conduct yon from an inspection of public edifices to that of a public promenade ; for were I to barely enumerate, with the slightest notice whatever, the whole of the former — oon^st- ing of churches and chapels, haUs, exchanges, banks, of which latter the Branch Bank of the United States is another beautiful white marble building— colleges, of which that called Colombia, formerly styled King's coUege, is an exceUent Kte- .rary establishment — of theatres, exhibiting consi- derable architectural beau^ — academies, lyceums, libraries, asylums, museums, hospitals, hotels, &c. &c, — I should weaiy your patience beyond all en- durance. Haying spoken about churches, let me, howeTer, observe, that with respect to the subject of religion in the United States, I will give you my opinion, when I shall be competent to form one, afier a sufficient residence in the country, and after taking the various excursions through it which I propose to make.
The promenade, whither I now intend leading you, gratified my taste, I must acknowledge, for the picturesque and beautiful, and excited my ad- miration of the local advantages possessed by the worthy citizens of New York, more than almost any other object that I beheld. This is the Battery,
30 THE BATTSBT.
lying at the extremity of Broadway^ moet delight- fully situated on the very edge of the bay, and presenting a coup d'ceil across its sunny surfiuse, studded with various beautiful islands, and around its lovely and diversified shores, which is very rarely enjoyed from the immediate suburbs of so large and populous a city. It is, in fitct, a sptp cious pleasure-ground, enclosed by a handsome and substantial fence, tastefully disposed into gravel- walks, and adorned with a well-assorted selection of trees, shrubs, and flowers, which, during the fine .season, exhibit an appearance of the most fresh and vigorous growth, and of a soft and delicious ver- dure that I have never seen exceeded any where. The prospect hence, but more especially from the Battery itself, which gives its name to the prome- nade below, comprises a perfect panorama, and is as varied and enchanting a scene as even the eye or heart of Dr. Syntax himself, travelling in search of the picturesque, could desire to look on. Here the view ranges over the commodious harbour, ofier- ing to the eye a crowded assemblage of shipping from every quarter of the world — over the noble shores of Long Island, and New Jersey, with its lovely-looking city in prominent display on a jutting point of land — the prosperous town of Brooklyn, finely elevated on an eminence rising above East river — over a variety of neat villas
THE EPFECrr OP FASHION. 31
and country-seats, scattered throughout the ex- tensiye landscape, with an interesting foreground formed by three islands, called Governor's Island, Bedlow's Island, and Ellis's Island, on each of which is planted a military station.
The Battery, properly so called, or Castle Garden, whence the finest panoramic view is ob- tained, is fitted up aS an amphitheatre, where are occasionally displayed exhibitions of fire-works, and where a band of music, during the summer months, regale the lovers of harmony while en- joying then- evening promenade. And yet you will scarcely credit me, after this description, when I tell you that this captivating scene is compa- ratively neglected : such, however, I regret to say, is the fact. Nursery-maids and children, with a few scattered individuals of the ruder sex, are the sole tenants of these fairy walks ; while the fascinating Belles of New York are blushing in all their charms along the much less romantic avenues of Broadway. The dereliction of this favoured retreat appeared so remarkable to me, that I took occasion to inquire the cause of a highly respectable inhabitant of the city, when the previously inexplicable secret was at once explained, by my being informed it was — un-- fashionable !
In reference to the fair sex of this Transat- lantic capital, I may as well take the opportunity
32 PLEASURE-GROUNDS OF HOBOKEN.
of mentioning^ that, as far as respected them; I could have fancied myself walking in Rue Rivoli, or Rue de la Paix, or sauntering in the gardens of the Tuileries ; as they were attired, to the very complexion and arrangement of their shoe-strings, completely a la Franfaise ; and no Parisian heauty ever glides along more showily arrayed, in the very extreme of the fashion, than the Belles of ibis city.
Another place of delightful resort, and certainly fashionahle, as far as I could judge, — at all events much more numerously frequented, — is presented in the pleasure-grounds, and lovely, rural prome- nades of Hoboken, stretching along the margin of the river; of which, and of the city, they com- mand most interesting views, and constitute the Kensington Gardens of New York. I do not know, precisely, why they should be more generally patronised, except that they are of somewhat more difficult access, having to cross the Hudson river in a steam-boat in order to reach them. The secret, perhaps, lies in this, that what costs nothing is disregarded, while that which is only to be attained by a little trouble or expense is con- sidered valuable. And this is human nature all over the world.
Having heard, as I have no doubt you have, frequent allusion made to the curiosity of the Americans, of which most probably, like many
AMERICAN CURIOSITY. 33
ether mauvaises plaisanteries, the relations are grossly exaggerated; and these, perhaps, to be restricted to the lower orders, I shall now present you with an amusing scene that took place two or three days after my arrival at New York, between a worthy citizen (not exactly in the rank of an aristocrat) and myself, in front of the City Hall. Having strolled into the park where that building is situated, I addressed some questions respecting it to a well-dressed, decent-looking man who was passing at the moment, and which having answered, he immediately turned interrogator him- self, and commenced by saying: — "I guess you are a stranger?" " Yes, I am," I replied. " Well, I guess, now, you come from the mother-country," continued my good-humoured catechiser. I as- sured him I did. " Well, now, I thought so," said he ; and, half hesitating whether or not to proceed, he added, "What part do you come from, stranger?" I could scarcely refrain from laughing at my friend's easy assurance ; however, I told him, " From London." " And how long have you been in America?" he next inquired. I answered that question also ; when, emboldened by my ready replies to his interrogatories, and his curiosity to know still further, increasing in the exact ratio of my acquiescence with his pre- vious demands, he now planted himself in an attitude of repose, which fully convinced me that
c2
34 UNITED states' NAVT-YAED.
he WBS going to demand the histoiy of my life, birth^ parentage, and education ; to conclude, per- haps, with a request that I would allow him io examine the marks on my teeth, in order to as- certain my age ; upon which historical detail, and dental examination, as I was not then prepared to enter, I very unceremoniously wished him a very good day, and walked off. I turned round shortly afterwards, and perceived him starmg after me in the fixed attitude in which I had left him, and looking " unutterable things ;" thinking, doubt- lessly, that it was impossible I could ever have come from so refined a place as London, and flattering himself that he had much the advantage of me in manners and good breeding.
During my short residence in New York I was reminded, in no inconsiderable degree, of our good city of Liverpool, in consequence of that ceaseless activity, commercial bustle, and assem- blage of vessels, forming the leading feature of both towns, and which assimilates one to the other. Of course, as an Englishman, I did not omit to visit the United States' navy-yard, over which I was kindly shewn by an officer in the service. The country being in a state of perfect re- pose from warlike operations, I did not witness there that busy and animated scene which, without pro- perly reflecting on it, I had previously expected, from observing the fine and numberless vessels
STEAK-FRIGATE FULTON. 35
pasmng to and fro along their bays and rivers, and which, beyond any doubt, declare them a great and maritime nation. I saw here the shattered hnlk of the steam-frigate Fulton, the only man- of-war to which steam was ever applied. It was accidentally blown up in 1829, alongside the navy- yard, and lies half sunk in the water. Two sixty- four gun frigates were the only ships I saw on the stocks, and on which, in these ** piping times of peace," no ship-wrights were at work. The finest ship of war that I saw at New York was the Kensington frigate, thirty-two guns, a short time previously sold to the Russians. She was truly a splendid vessel, and her state-cabin fit for the reception of a monarch. To say that I witnessed a wonderful difference between the navy-yard of New York and those of Plymouth and Devonport in my own country, is but what all mankind would naturally suppose ; and it would be an in- vidious remark to make, unless qualified by ac- companying reflections. It would amount to no- thing more than to simply declare, that youth is not manhood, and that the accumulations of a long series of centuries must inevitably, through the force of geometrical progression, be vastly greater than those of a few short years. America is but the infant giant, while the other has grown up to maturity. But I think it by no means re- quires a prophetic vision to foresee, through the
36 AMERICAN DESPATCH.
long vista of coining years, a matured strength, and a mighty and prosperous power^ to be wielded hereafter by the people of the United States, equal to any thing that either modem or andeni times have yet witnessed. This belief is neces- sarily founded on the supposition, that the various States of the Union will continue to hold together in that powerful combination existing at the pre- sent moment, and which, therefore, may be said to involve the whole question. Some think that they perceive, already, the strong symptoms of a disruption of the general compact. Of this I can, at present, say nothing ; but I shall be able to form a more decided opinion after I shall have traversed the country throughout its length and breadth.
Having incidentally touched on American en- terprise, I may as well give you a specimen of the indefatigable industry, and economy of time with which it is united, among these active and bustling people — a union by which commerce must assur- edly flourish, if it possess at all the element of success within it. I must acknowledge myself, however, to have been, for some days after my arrival, wofully inconvenienced by the circum- stance; though I afterwards found a tolerable remedy in seizing time by the forelock. I allude to the public dinners. The custom in the States is not, as in England — and, generally speaking, in Europe — for each person or party, staying at
BAPIDITT OF EATISG. 37
an hotely to take the different meals of the day akme, and at the hour most agreeable for that porpofle — an arrangement so admirably suited to travelling — but to place down^ at a table d'hote, all the guests in the honse, and at fixed hours^ on the rilling of a belL Should you be absent but fiir ten minutes (I speak principally of dinner) after this graye warning has announced the critical moment, you stand rather an unpleasant chance of haying to postpone your dinner to the following day ; rince it is only as an exception to the mle^ that " mine host" will furnish you with a private repast after the public one shall be over; and, even then, by no means so good, and at an in- creased charge for the accommodation. The cause of my distress arose from the extraordinary raindity with which this most essential meal throoghont the twenty-four hours was performed. On the first occasion of my dining at the public table, I had but just receiyed a plate offish, after partaking of soup, and was leisurely commencing to despatch it, and was comfortably settling my- self in my chair for a couple of hours to come, when, easting my eye along the line of the table, I was immediately startled to find that half the chairs in yarious portions of its length, and which bat a few moments before were ftdly occupied, had been deserted; and in fiye minutes afterwards I was left in a state of solitary abandonment, with
38 RAPIDITY OF EATING.
the exception of three others^ out of a large company of perhaps 160 persons. But^ although amused^ as well as disturbed^ (as the result well justified) at the unequalled despatch and haaly retirement of these worthy citizens, yet being very hungry at the moment — having eaten only a quarter of my way through the dinner — I was in no slight degree alarmed at seeing the dished all leaving the table along with the guests. How- ever, just as one of the waiters was rapidly re- moving the viands placed immediately before me, which I thought rather un peu tropy since I was giving the most unequivocal demonstration that I was far from concluding, I laid an embargo on two of the best of them ; till at length, perceiving that I was a lonely unit out of 150 well-dined (I suppose) and departed persons, shame got the better of my appetite, and I sprung up and de- parted too, fully resolved the next day to imitate my neighbours, by devouring my repast in double- quick time and in solemn silence.
I have merely mentioned this circumstance as an instance of the stirring activity and economising diligence of the American people ; for the haste with which the gastronomic operation is per- • formed is solely to enable them to hurry back to their various avocations — many of the citizens lodging privately elsewhere, but taking their meals, for greater convenience, and after the
APPETITE VERSUS INTELLECT. 39
general fashion of the States^ in public hotels. Of course, these observations do not refer to private life, in regular domestic establishments; though, even there, it is by no means customary to remain long at table. I need scarcely tell you, that, under such an inauspicious aspect as regards conversation, the least communication with your neighbour is entirely out of the question. You must be content to swallow your food in silence, as well as in thankfulness, and make better use of your knife and fork than I was able to do with my chop-sticks, when feasting on sharks' fins, and bird's-nest soup, at the mandarin's dinner in China.
I must not omit to inform you of the amusing puzzle in which I found myself, one day, when dining at the above hotel. It was literally appe- tite versus intellect — the body versus the mind. I had met at breakfast, during the previous part of the morning, a very sensible, intelligent man, in the person of one of the United States' judges ; next whom, at dinner, I found myself accidentally seated. I instantly felt the full force of the posi- tion in i|hich I was placed. I was aware that, if I opened my mouth for any other purpose than to receive the contents of my plate, I must put my appetite in my pocket till the following day. I was very hungry, and the judge was particu- larly agreeable; and as he was on the point of
40 DINING WITHOUT EATING.
leaving the city, the moment was a critical one, and the question required instant decision. Hie tempting viands were sending forth a delicious odour, which my greedy eyes were already de- vouring, and I instinctively took up my knife and fork, while ruminating all the time on several topics of very interesting information that I knew my learned friend could better explain to me than any other person present. Just at this point of carnal and mental agony, as ill-fortune would have it, one of the servants brought me a plate of real turtle, or something equally delicious^ of which, under the irresistible temptation, I imme* diately took a couple of mouthsful ; when, feeling perfectly ashamed to think that the grosser part of my nature should have such a base triumph, I laid down my knife and fork, entered into con- versation with the judge, gained all the know- ledge I wanted, and rose from table " as hungry as a hunter."
After remaining in New York for a few days (intending to return to it again), I began to prepare for an excursion to Philadelphia ; and as money is the sine qua non of a trj^veller, I proceeded to my bankers, in Wall Street, for a supply of that essential article, on a letter of credit which I had upon the house. I discovered, however, to my disappointment, that the duplicate letter of advice that was promised, before my
TACT OF A NEW YORK BANKER. 41
departure from England^ to be put into the London post-office, had not yet reached them; and as, for the sake of very proper precaution, advances are not usually made on your own letter, till a second, advising the bankiers of the fact, has been received, one of the partners very politely informed me, that, on my proving my identity, they would wave the ceremony of previous notice. The circumstance that followed on this, inspired me with a higher notion of the acuteness, tact, sharp-sightedness, and decision, of the com- mercial gentlemen of New York, than any thing else that could have occurred. I replied, I should endeavour to do so to their satisfaction; and having a letter of introduction in my pocket for a gentleman in the city, which I had brought with me from England, but had not presented in consequence of not finding him at home, I mechanically drew it forth as I uttered the words, rather to satisfy myself that I had it than to exhibit it. The motion, however, was sufficient; for my lynx-eyed friend the banker, with a single glance at the writing, not sufficient to decipher the entire superscription, exclaimed, '* Why, that is Mr. W.'s handwriting! I am perfectly satisfied, sir; — you may immediately have what money you want, or the whole if you please.'' I confess I was never more struck with quickness of sight and sharp-wittedness than on this occasion. On
42 JOURNEY TO PHILADELPHIA.
fiirtber conversation, I understood that, though be had repeatedly seen the writing of that gei^ tleman, he bad not received letters from him for four years.
I now quitted, for a short period, the inte^ resting island of Manhattan ; and, embarking on board one of those fine steam-boats that ply in such numbers on the American waters, I pro- ceeded to Philadelphia, distant from New York ninety-four miles. Having crossed the bay, we entered Staten Island sound, lying between that island and the state of New Jersey, and where the scenery is highly varied and picturesque; and, passing down the Rariton — on the banks of which, as on those of the sound, are ieen several pretty villages and country-seats — we arrived at New Brunswick, a small town, con- taining a theological seminary — having steamed through a distance of thirty-six miles in about three hours. Here we left our comfortable boat for less agreeable coaches, in which we were packed (nine inside) as close as barrelled her- rings ; and in this unenviable condition, under an oppressive sun, half- smothered with dust, cruelly jolted on a most uneven road, and so straitened in our movements as to cause a sen- sation similar to what one might expect to feel in being handcuffed, we proceeded twenty-six miles, to Trenton, the capital of the state of New
GEORGE THE THIRD. 43
Jersqr. It is situated on the river Delaware, a fine expansive stream dividing that state from Pennsylvania. The route thus passed over affords a variety of fine views of the most fertile portions of the former state — the soil being good, excellently cultivated, and presenting splendid specimens of Indian com. The scenery is by no means un- interesting, as long as one can divest himself of fears of dislocation from the roads, and cramp inside the coach. The American steam -boats are admirable, and the mode of conveyance by them most commodious and delightful; but the land-carriage is a wincing and grimacing opera- tion throughout, and makes you almost appre- hensive that your features will never return again to their natural expression on your countenance.
On our way we passed through Princeton, a pleasant little town, possessing a college of high reputation, called Nassau Hall, as likewise a theological academy. It is said that, during the battle of Princeton, in the war of the revolution, a cannon-ball entered a chapel in the town, and dashed off the head 6rom a picture of George III. After such a direful omen, the consequence was inevitable.
Trenton possesses a population of about 4000 inhabitants, and has a bridge of five arches, of handsome though very singular construction, thrown across the Delaware ; the bridge being
44 PASSAGE DOWN THB DBLAWABE.
suspended from the arches, which are here rever* sed in point of architectural order, being placed above^ instead of below, the road which thej sup* port. The character of the country thus &r is genemlly level, with but few varieties of outline.
At Trenton we stepped on board another steam-boat, where we found a plentiful dinner prepared for us, and smoked our course down the Delaware for Philadelphia, distant thirty* three miles; passing close to the village of Bardentown, where resides, in unostentatioitf seclusion, Joseph Bonaparte, ex-king of Spain. Several beautiful villages and gentlemen's seats, decorated with flower-gardens and shaded by handsome trees, adorn the banks of this spacious stream, of which Bristol and Burlington are the most interesting. The shores of this river are too flat to be picturesque, but their margin is neatly skirted by a continued row of willows and other trees of various descriptions.
The approach to Philadelphia presents, even in its exterior, something very handsome and inviting, though lying on a dead level close to the Delaware. Scarcely a single curl of smoke was to be seen hovering over it ; while the spires and steeples of the state-house and of the nume* rous churches and chapels which it contains, elevated, in a clear and brilliant sky, their glit- tering points.
PASSAGE DOWN TRE DELAWARE. 45
Haying now brought you to what is generally esteemed the most beautiful city of the Union — through, I fear, a wearisome epistle — I shall cease any longer to strain your eyes or cramp my own fingers ; and wish you fiurewell, till we meet on paper again.
46
LETTER III.
Cheapness of Travelling — Cliesapeake and Delaware Canal— Chesapeake Bay — Baltimore — Equivocal Accommodation of American Coaches — Baltimore and Ohio Rail-road — Ingenious Principle of Locomotion — Discussion on Slavery — Washington — the Capital — Houses of Congress — the Potomac — Alexandria — Mount Vernon, Country Seat of Washington — his Tomb in the Grounds — Museum at Alexandria — Relics of the Patriot.
Washington^ 20th Jtme, 1 831 . MY DEAR FRIEND,
Haying limited the extent of the southern part of my excursion in the states, in consequence of the fast approaching hot season, to the seeing of Washington and its environs; and being anxious, for the same reason, to visit that capital while the cooler weather still pre- vailed ; I determined, after remaining one day in Philadelphia, to proceed thither forthwith, and to defer my acquaintance with the principal city of Pennsylvania, so worthy of being admired for its great beauty and interesting institutions, till my return. While, therefore, I put under sus-
JOUBNET TO BALTIMORE. 47
pense for a short period the curiosity you will feel to know something of a town founded by the great and virtuous Penn, I will endeavour to fill up the interval as agreeably as I can, by supply- ing you with information, if not entirely as inte- resting, at least that shall have equally the charm of novelty.
In pursuance, therefore, of my design, I left Philadelphia for Baltimore, distant by water ninety-six miles, in that pleasantest of all con- veyances in America, a steam-boat. It was truly most splendid and commodious, being much supe- rior to the one in which I came from New York ; the copper of her boilers amounting in weight to the enormous quantity of 65,000 lbs. We glided over the sur&ce of the noble Delaware with some- what of the rapidity of a swallow ; and having, as in nearly aU these boats, a spacious and elegant deck to walk on, well shaded by an awning from the heat — a brilliant sun above us, casting a mellow light on the surrounding landscape — a well-fbmiahed table, as the most squeamish appe- tite ooold desire — and without a single jar or jolt in our motion, from bad roads and unelastic springs — I required nothing on earth to lend an additional charm to this fairy scene, but the presence of One, far distant across the boundless oeean. But supreme good was never meant to dwell in this state of chequered existence; for
1
48 CHESAPEAKE AND DELAWARE CAKAL.
in vain should we seek for the '^amaranthine bowers** of a better paradise above, could we find one hei'e below !
To give you an idea of the greater cheapness of ira veiling in America, I need only mention that three dollars, or about 13^.6^., formed the entire charge of our conveyance through the space of ninety-six miles. For the distance of about fifteen miles from Philadelphia, the character of the river resembles, in flatness, the previous portion of it which I have before described ; but in the neigh- bourhood of Wilmington it rises into considerable elevation, and presents much of picturesque beauty. On arriving at Delaware city — a simple hamlet magnified into a corporate town, in anticipation of its future greatness — we left our steamer for a small packet-boat, drawn by horses, and conti- nued our progress on the Chesapeake and Dela- ware canal, which connects the waters of the Chesapeake bay with those of the Delaware river. It is a work of great magnitude and importance, not on account of its length, which is but fourteen miles, but in consequence of the great commercial advantages gained by the union of these two mighty streams, and of the vast difficully en- countered, from the nature of the soil, in its con- struction ; a portion of it, four miles in lengthi called the Deep Cut, having been excavated in some places to the depth of seventy feet. From its
BAY OF THE CHESAPEAKE. 40
breadth and d^pth it is calculated for the passage of vessels of considerable burden ; and across the canal, at the greatest elevation of the em)>ank- ment, is thrown a bridge of singular appfaranc^f and ingenious construction^ rising to the h(;jght of nearly ninety feet above the surface of the water.
On reaching the village of ChesajKiake — why not equally a city with the other, I c^ould not learn — we again moved our quarters to a mv/md nUtaut' boat, and pursued our course down Htutk (imak and Elk River, the meandering hanks of wtjirjj are diversified by the richest and nioHt luxuria/it foliage ; recalling forcibly to my remerrihranc^j the unexcelled beauty of the vegetation on the shores and islands of the Straits of Mala/x'a. 'Ilie charm of the whole is greatly heightened by w^nng, here and there, a lonely fisherman's hut, mot^t roman* tically situated amid tlie deepest Ke^;! union. B<;ine miles lower down, we reached the magnific^r^nt Bay of the Chesapeake, one of the finest and dnnjntHt in the world; being 170 miles in h^ngth to the ocean. There, the waters ex[>arjd to a bn^th of many miles, and exhibit on their Ix/som s<;veral verdant islands, and on their shores, notwithstand- ing their flatness, much of interesting variety, and many picturesque objects. Fourteen milew from Baltimore, we left the Bay and entered the Patap- 80O river, conducting immediately to that city, and which is now considered, from its population, the
VOL. I. I>
50 EXTERIOR VIEW OF BALTIMORE.
third in the Union. Passing Fort M*Heniy, a military outwork pushed forward on the river for the protection of the town and harbour, and which, in 1814^ gallantly repulsed an attack made on it by the British bomb-vessels, we soon afterwards reached our destination.
The appearance of Baltimore, though in reality a fine city, is not near so pretty or interesting as that of Philadelphia ; the dingy hue of the atmo- sphere, arising from steam and other manufactur- ing chimneys, being much greater than at the latter place — the suburbs lining the shore not appearing so good — the houses and stores along the quay presenting a less handsome front — and the Patapsco not being, by any means, equal to the Delaware. So much for mere comparisons sake between the two cities ; for, speaking of its absolute merits, it is a highly flourishing and rapidly increasing town, and bids fair to excel its rival, in the course of time, perhaps in population as in commerce. The Washington monument — of which, and of the city, I intend giving you a few notices in a subsequent letter — ofiers a strik- ing object to the eye on approaching it from the river.
On landing, I proceeded to take up my quar- ters at the City Hotel, kept by Mr. Bamum, and considered the best and largest in the States. It is certainly a noble edifice, containing upwards
INGENIOUS MODE OF POSTING LETTERS. 51
of 170 wdl-furnished apartments, and is main- tained in a style of excellent order and cleanliness. One of the apartments consists of a reading- room, where I was amused by witnessing an inge- nious contrivance, adopted for the convenience of the worthy citizens, and others attending it, with r^ard to depositing their letters in the post-office. It seems that this latter building is situated on the basement story of the hotel, and with which, by means of a wooden canal, the news-room above communicates ; so that, without leaving the house, a gentleman's letters may, by this conveyance, be as safely dropped into the office as by walking to it, and without the trouble of going.
In furtherance of my plan, already mentioned, I left Baltimore, on the morning following my arrival, for Washington ; proposing to see the former on my return, when I should be gradually creeping along to the cooler atmosphere of the north as the southern sky grew warmer. The distance, thirty-eight miles, was to be performed in one of the public coaches ; there being no post- ing, however much some travellers might wish it, in any part of the United States. The one by which I proceeded, belonging to a particular com- pany, was recommended to me by seeing it an- nounced to be hung on steel springs ; a luxury which many of them, I believe, do not possess, in consequence of the state of the roads, to the infiic-
52 PRIVILEGES OF AMERICAN TRAVELLERS.
tion of divers contusions and tossings to and fino> of the uninitiated traveller.
We left the hotel at eight in the morning, and had barely cleared the suburbs of the city by nine o'clock, arising from the various detentions inci- dent to a custom which, as far as my memory bears me out, prevails only in America. The arrange- ment alluded to, is to take up the different passen- gers, who have ''booked their places" at the office, at their respective dwellings, in whatever part of the town they may be situated. On this occasion, as they lived in perfectly opposite directions to each other, and especially as we were " at fault," as sportsmen say, in discovering the residence of a lady who was to accompany us, we were cantering up one street and trotting down another, and then coming to a full stop, in order to make inquiries, till at length nearly every street and lane in the town had been passed through. The patience, as you may imagine, of the poor passengers, of whom four had taken their seats at the com- mencement of this tour of discovery, was pretty nearly exhausted.
I candidly acknowledge that, whenever self is concerned in the matter, as one of the persons to be taken up, this arrangement is mighty agree- able ; but when you happen to have stepped into your coach from the hotel whence it drives, you would most thankfully be relieved from those
SINGULAR PRINCIPLE OF LOCOMOTION. 53
violent evolutions which you are involuntarily made to describe, while jolting over half-a-dozen miles of paved streets in taking up three or four passengers, or hunting for a lost one. Honest John Bull, I must declare, is not near so com- plaisant in this respect as Brother Jonathan ; and would almost, I am inclined to believe, rather drive his coach empty, than have to play at " hare and hounds " with his passengers in the manner related. I have no doubt, however, that this mode of collecting their complement will be changed ere long, in accordance with the fashion of the rest of the world ; not because it is the fiishion, but because public convenience would, in the main, be much better consulted by it; and I cannot but say, irom the little experience I have already had in America, that this consideration is acted upon, towards the community at large, to as great an extent as is to be seen in any part of the world.
At length we fairly emerged from the town, and, after proceeding some distance, we entered on a portion of the magnificent rail-road construct- ing between this place and Pittsburg on the Ohio ; and, changing our conveyance, were propelled, for a number of miles, by the most novel and singular mode that I ever witnessed. Our ingenious princi- ple of locomotion was the following : — two horses were placed in a kind of heavy wagon in the
54 SINGULAR PRINCIPLE OF LOCOMOTION.
rear of our carriage, and, by the motion of their feet in walking over a revolving platform, pat into action a variety of springs that were fixed iindemeath it ; and these again operating on the wheels of this curious piece of mechanism, pushed forward our vehicle, which was attached to it, at the rate of ten miles an hour. Thus, the horses were continually walking, and yet were carried forward ; and by walking only four miles an hour, though without advancing a single inch on the platform, caused us and themselves to be conveyed ten. The sharp-witted engineer who had invented this extraordinary piece of machinery was present on the occasion, and informed me that it was an experiment of his own, of which he had been trying the effect ; and certainly thus far it seemed to answer its purpose to admiration. The mode, however, of travelling, when the road shall be completed, is intended to be by steam.
This rail-road is one of the many superb works at present in a state of progression in various parts of the United States, and which prove irresistibly, in spite of all prejudice and unjust and illiberal depre- ciation to the contrary, that the Anglo-American nation, if not the most enterprising in the world, (but which, with one exception, I allow it to be), is at least, in this respect, second to none ; and it is an Englishman who declares it. Leaving the rail-road, we stepped into a similar carriage to
DISCUSSION OK SLAVERY. 65
the first, and prosecuted our joamey to the capital. Though the soil in this part of the state of Mary- land, in which we now were, is by no means of a rich and productive quality, and where, in con- sequence, but few cottages are seen, or signs of extensive cultivation exhibited, yet the eye is oc- casionally regaled by the charms of elegant land- scape. Maryland is the first state, to the south- ward of New York, in which slavery is f)ennitted and practised ; and on this unhappy sul)ject I had a lengthened discussion in the coac;h with the lady in search of whose habitation in Baltimore we had been previously cutting so many wearisome capers and evolutions in the different streets. I found her bitterly prejudiced against the whole order of the black population. She insisted that the slaves were a distinct and undefinable race of beings, as well in soul as in l)ody. She acknow- ledged, though with evident reluctance, and witli apparently no wish to see them there herself, that they might go to heaven as well as the whites; but urged with great vehemence, " That the broadest possible distinction, and line of separation, should be drawn between the two colours, at least in this world ; and that though God rnaxle no difference between them, except on the score of virtue, yet that the white man should." This sounded in my ears as very strange doctrine, particularly as coming from the lips of a woman.
56 WOMAN, THB ANGEL OF LIFB.
in whose softer and purer nature we expect to find, and I rejoice to say do find, more of that '' charity which sufiereth long and is kind, seek- eth not her own, is not easily provoked, thinketh no evil ;" in short, of that " charity which never faileth." For, it is with the sincerest sense of justice to womankind, as well as with the entire willingness of my mind, that I concede to them the great superiority which they possess over my own sex, in all the qualities of moral and religious worth ; and I feel convinced that they have done more, since the promulgation of the divine precepts of Christianity, and in dependence on its inspired teaching, than any other moral principle whatever, to refine the heart and to elevate the standard of human nature.
The exception is said to prove the rule, and in this sadly prejudiced lady I discovered what the sex are not. And perhaps for her some charitable allowances are to be made, in considera- tion of all the years of her life having been passed in a slave-holding state, where the opinions she professed are considered perfectly orthodox, and as political dogmas not to be departed from either in theory or practice. I left this white advocate for black slavery in a state of utter amazement at the entire debasement of my taste and intellect, when I assured her that I would rather associate with a virtuous black than a vicious white. She
CITY OF WASHINGTON. 57
looked at me '^ unutterable things/' and seemed as if she would have '' spoken daggers** — though I hope would have used none — when we came in fflght of that splendid edifice the Capitol, finely elevated above the city, and in which the houses of Congress assemble. This instantly arrested our attention, broke ofi* the discussion, and saved me, probably, from a most indignant rebuke for my gross violation of reason, and the degradation of my superior and privileged nature. In a few minutes afterwards we alighted at Gadsby's hotel, where we separated, to meet no more.
The city of Washington, whence I address you, is the seat of the supreme government of the United States. Each of the twenty-four states composing the Union, possesses a separate govern- ment, that presides over its own internal afiairs; but the former controls the whole confederation in all those multifarious concerns which respect the welfare of the entire community. These are, the imposition of taxes, the regulation of com- merce with foreign nations, the declaration of war and making of peace, the raising of armies, providing a navy, and a thousand other matters of public policy and legislation which each state could not do for the rest. Such and similar powers have been, therefore, by universal consent, del^ated to the general Congress, in conjunction with the president for the time being.
d2
' «
58 DESCRIPTION OF THE CITT.
Washington is situated on the beautiful banks of the Potomac, in the centre of what is called the District of Colombia, which acknowledges the authority of Congress alone, haying been ceded, for state purposes, by Virginia and Maryland. The plan of the city, as originally laid down, comprised features of great magnificence as well as of extent. Its design was, that all the main streets, to be constructed on a scale of elegant pro- portion and considerable magnitude, as to length and breadth, should radiate in straight lines from the Capitol, the noblest building in the city, to all the points of the circle, of which that edifice was to be the centre. It was, undoubtedly, a highly tasteful and imposing outline for a future great city ; but which is so far, however, I am sorry to say, from having been filled up, that but one street of all the proposed number has been opened ; and, as Washington principally depends for its support on the government, and the tem- porary residence of the members of Congress, it is perhaps not very probable that the scheme will ever be fully accomplished. This solitary street is the Pennsylvania Avenue, which runs to the extent of about a mile and a half, being of pro- portionate breadth, and pleasantly shaded by rows of trees. On its eastern extremity stands the Capi- tol, finely elevated on a commanding eminence, while its western termination is closed in by a
THB CAPITOL. 59
t
view of the president's house. The other streets of the town, to some of which, from their detached portions and broken lines, one can scarcely assign the name, display but little appearance of regu- larity.
The great "lion," however, of this place, is the Capitol, which, beyond any doubt, reflects equal credit on the skill and execution of the architect, and on the spirit and taste of the American people, and stands a monument and illustration of their rising power and importance. It is built of white free-stone, resting on a noble terrace surrounded by pleasure-grounds ; and pre- sents in each of two fronts, looking eastward and westward, a magnificent portico and colonnade. The centre portion of the structure is surmounted by a large dome, which some think spoils the eflTect, (though I confess I am not of the same opinion), and from which wings extend on either side. The approach to it, on each of its faces, is by a handsome and extensive flight of stone steps, by which you attain to the principal en- trance ; and, after passing a short distance into the interior of the building, and ascending a sinii- lar staircase of stone, you are immediately ushered into the rotunda. This is a spacious circular area, formed entirely of marble, being ninety-six feet in diameter, and ninety-six to the top of the dome ; and which for beauty, majesty, and proportion, equals any thing of the kind I ever remember to
60 THE BOTUKDA.
have seen. The effect is grand and imposing; and the reverberation is such, that the ordinary tone of the voice echoes along the circumference like the murmuring of distant thunder.
Four compartments of the walls of this splen- did hall are occupied by pictures painted for the government by Colonel Trumbull, representing the Declaration of Independence, the Surrender at Saratoga, that at Yorktown, and Washington resigning his commission. They are highly in- teresting paintings ; and, according to my hum- ble judgment, very well executed. At the same time, I confess that an Englishman must r^ard at least two of them with a somewhat equi- vocal interest, in comparison with an American ; so unaccustomed is the former to see an exhibi- tion of a British oflScer surrendering his sword to the enemy, as is here portrayed. Exclusively, however, of all private feelings, the two others, I think, speak more forcibly to the interest of the spectator; — the Declaration of Independence be- ing the solemn and momentous act of a united and enthusiastic people, in the assertion of what they considered their unalienable rights; a stem justice due to themselves and to their posterity; and the Resignation of his Commission by Wash- ington, bringing into prominent view the majes- tic figure, and nobly disinterested act, of a man who had emphatically earned to himself the title of " Father of his Country." Four remaining
CHAMBER OF BEPBESENTATIYES. 61
ocHnpartments are still left to be filled up by otber classical reminiscences of the earlier days of the repabliCy when the whole will be uniform, and nothing be omitted that can detract from un- qualified admiration.
On a higher elevation on the walls of the rotunda than that on which these paintings are placed, are seen four relievos in marble, com- memorating some of the principal events con- nected with the first possession of the States. One of them represents the landing of the pil- grims at Plymouth, in 1610; another, a severe contest between an Indian chief and one of the eauJy settlers; a third, the celebrated William Penn's treaty with the Indians near Philadelphia in 1682 ; and the fourth, the rescuing from death, by Pocahontas, of Captain Smith, one of the first settlers in Virginia. The sweetly expressive countenance of the female savage, and her de- lightfully supplicating attitude to her father, who, with uplifted war-club, is on the point of sacri- ficing his prostrate foe, are most feelingly and beautifully delineated.
From the rotunda I proceeded to the Chamber of Representatives, a most splendid semicircular apartment adorned by a proftision of superb co- lumns of a dark-bluish stone, commonly called pudding stone, brought from the shores of the Potomac. These columns, which bear a high polish, have the appearance, when closely ex-
62 NUMBER OF REPREBBNTATIYES.
amined, of the most beautiful mosaic work that can be imagined. I must candidly admit, that there is no comparison whatever, in point of mag- nificence, between the English and American Houses of Commons^ as the latter bears the pre- eminence without any rivalry. At the same time it may be considered, that there is, perhaps, as great a difierence on the other side, — if the dis- tinction be worth the consideration — in point of antiquity; and, at all events, with respect to hearing — no unessential quality in a deliberatiye assembly — the advantage, I understand, is much in favour of St. Stephens. The semicircularity of the Chamber of Representatives produces a species of reverberation, I am informed, which frequently renders indistinct, even to the members themselves, much of what is said. It is highly desirable that this defect should be remedied, in order to render the chamber, so worthy of the legislative councils of a spirited and rising people, as effective in point of utility as it is of grandeur.
The number of members composing the house is, I believe, 216, though liable to fluctuations, * inasmuch as the amount is graduated according to the ascending scale of population ; every ad- ditional 40,000 inhabitants being entitled to re- turn an additional member. The seats on which the worthy members recline, and before each of whom is placed a desk containing private drawers, are ranged in successive semicircles in front of the
THB SENATE CHAMBER. 63
speaker ; a mode of adjusting their relative po- sitions at once advantageous for hearings and for its elegant effect on the eye. I regret much that the session is not at present holding, the period of its commencement heing in December in each year; but should I be tempted to extend my re- sidence in the States to the ensuing spring, which I do not at present contemplate, I shall certainly, in that case, pay a second visit to Washington, in order to witness the various modes of proceeding in Congress; to ascertain their style of oratory, and become acquainted with some of the leading politicians of the country.
The Senate-chamber, which I next visited, is much smaller, and considerably less imposing than the other ; but it possesses an air of comfort, highly composing to the spirits ; an effect that is studied by the members of both houses more than in other assemblies with which I am better ac- quainted. This room is, I think, less elegant than our House of Lords, though I prefer the semicir- cular form that prevails also here, as in the Re- presentative Chamber, to the straight-line benches which characterise both the British houses. The number of senators is forty-eight ; each state of the twenty-four having the privilege of sending two, and no more, however extensive or populous its territory may be.
Not far distant from the Senate-chamber is the
64 VIEW FROM THE CAPITOL.
Library of Congress — a handsome room, contain- ing a well-assorted collection of yalnable and standard works. It affords a very pleasant lounge to the members when wearied with the prosings of an interminable speaker, and an easy access to information of all kinds, where, if they pleasej they may famish themselves with all imaginable arguments that favour their political bias, to be brought into quick action in the closely adjoining arena of party disputation.
The rest of this majestic structure is divided into different committee-rooms, where the various questions of state policy are examined by select members, prior to reports being made to the houses of Congress ; and into other apartments and offices appropriated to national affairs.
The last, though by no means the least inter- esting sight to be enjoyed at the Capitol, is the superb view from its summit. The eye ranges southerly, along the Pennsylvania Avenue, to the president's house, beyond which is seen George Town and a fine sweep of the Potomac. In a south-easterly direction is beheld the navy-yard, an establishment kept in considerable order and neatness, and to the south-west, the picturesque bridge across the Potomac, upwards of a mile in length, in which several extensive chasms have been made by the ice and floods of the late spring, with the road leading from it to Alexandria and
THE president's HOUSE. 65
Mount Vernon. To the southward^ is observed OreenleaTs Point ; and immediately on the right, the General Post-office and the other buildings of the city ; while the opposite banks of the riyer rise to a fine elevation^ studded here and there with country villas. The prospect alto- gether is truly magnificent; nothing was want- ing but a national monument to the memory of the great Washington, to have been erected on the site to which the government have lately removed the monumental tribute in honour of the officers who fell in the war of Tripoli, and which had previously stood, with more appropriate effect, in the navy-yard.
Not content with viewing the president's house at a distance, I proceeded to it, on leaving the Capi- tol, and found it a large handsome building of white free-stone, with a Grecian portico in front. It is unostentatious in its style and appearance, and such as is possessed by private gentlemen of for- tune in England; with this considerable difference, I must observe, that the ground surrounding a similar residence in the latter country is kept with remarkable taste and neatness, while that of the former is neglected, and suffered to detract, by no means inconsiderably, from the consistent air which the whole would otherwise possess. This requisite adornment, I have no doubt, however, is intended to be given to it; for though I aC'
66 MOUNT VERNON.
knowledge that the utilities of life, particularly in young states, should properly take the precedence of refinement and elegance, yet I have seen, in so many instances in America, the union of the utile dulci, that I do not know why it should be omitted here.
One of the delightful excursions that I have made from this place, has been to Mount Ver- non, the once favourite residence of that great pa- triot of his country, General Washington. This I enjoyed in the society of a most agreeable and amiable family from Quebec, with whom I had the good fortune to become acquainted ; having, indeed, come in the same coach together from Baltimore. Our first object was to reach Alex- andria, situated about six miles on the opposite banks of the river, and which we efiected in one of the steam-boats constantly plying between that town and the capital.
We found the shores of the Potomac beauti- fully undulating, and ofiering many eligible sites for villas, with which there is no doubt a future generation will adorn their banks. At Alexan- dria we stepped into a carriage, and were jolted over eight or nine miles of extremely bad road to Mount Vernon. For this, however, we were, in a great measure, compensated by the highly pic- turesque country through which we passed. The trees, groves, and woods, were of the most luxu-
MOUKT VERNON. 67
riant folii^e ; and the numerous verdant glades, peeping forth like so many sunny spots amid the forest, presented the very beau ideal for a wood- land cottage. The house at Mount Vernon is very simple and unpretending, but is enchantingly situated on the banks of the Potomac, with a very pretty lawn, shaded by trees, extending in front of it to the precipitous edges of the river, on which a summer-house is tastefully erected. Hi- ther the modem Cincinnatus retired from the toils of war, after having achieved his country's independence, crowned with triumphant success, and enjoying tlie benedictions of his country's gratitude.
This is the consecrated spot of ground, of all the United States, on which every American treads with reverential awe and filial affection; and who never recurs either to the place or to the name, but with feelings of enthusi- asm. And with justice; for, independent of the never-fading benefits which his self-devotion con- ferred upon them, as tlie national liberator, there are traits of moral and disinterested worth, both in his private and public character, that desig- nate him a great and good man. And yet — to the surprise of every foreigner, and to the regret, I be- lieve, of many of the Americans themselves — there is not a single trace to be seen, any where, of national gratitude and respect to his memory ;
66 THE TOMB OF WABHiyGTOK.
with the exception^ it might appear, of the spies* did monument at Baltimore, which* is to he con- sidered provincial rather than national — the. devotional token of the few, rather than of the many. If I am not misinformed, an act of Con- gress passed the houses ahout a couple of years ago, for raising a puhlic monument in honour of the hero ; but, if true, nothing whatever has yet been done ; and, if incorrect, they cannot take credit for even the negative merit of thinking of it.
We visited the private tomb in the grounds, distant but a short way from the house, and shaded by a few cedars, within which repose his mortal remains ; and I must own my disappoint- ment in beholding the grave of such a man at once so mean and so neglected. It had, in truth, the appearance of an old brick-kiln that had been closed up, and for which, had I not known what it was, I should doubtlessly have taken it. Not even the patriot's name, as such, was inscribed thereon. There were simply the words, if I mis- take not, " The Washington Tomb," or to that effect. If, however, any thing in the world could atone for the apparent want of personal senti- ment, of affection, or of gratitude, in the seeming neglect of this last asylum of the illustrious dead, it is the following beautiful and sublime passage of St. John, engraved upon it: — "I am the re- surrection and the life: he that believeth in me,
THE GARDEX. 69
though he were dead^ yet shall he lire : and who- soever liveth and believeth in me, shall never die!'* This deeply interesting and affecting pas- sage of Scripture spoke directly to the heart, and exalted, at once, to a more elevated character, the humble tomb before me. I forgot, in a mo- ment, in grateful admiration of so glorious a pro- mise made by the Divine Personage who uttered it, the oblivion to which it seemed consigned, and from which, in my estimation, it was more than half redeemed.
We afterwards passed through the garden; but all was forlorn and in a state of dilapidation. For this we could have accounted, had the house been untenanted and deserted. However, that was not the case, as we were kindly permitted to walk over it; and were shewn, among other things, a portrait of Washington on part of an earthen pitcher, which, having been broken, had been preserved by the family, who esteemed it the best likeness of him that had ever been made. We had shewn to us, also, the key of the Bastile of Paris, hung up in the hall ; but by what means it came there, we were not informed.
In returning through Alexandria, on our way back to the city, we visited the museum of that place, where the various relics of the departed hero were preserved with, apparently, as much religious veneration as those of a patron saint
70 RELICS OF THE PATRIOT.
by the most enthusiastic devotee. To give you a specimen of some of the articles: one was an elegant satin robe, in which Washington was baptised^ and which struck me as being rather aristocratic for a simple republican. At all events, the distinction was not his, as not being exactly of an age, when he wore it, to make it a dress of his own adoption. Another was a pen- knife, given to him by his mother when he was twelve years old, and which he had preserved for fifty-six years. A third article was a pearl button, taken from the coat that he wore when first installed hito office as President of the United States. A fourth was the last stick of sealing- wax that he used, and the last letter ever written by him, declining an invitation of himself and Mrs. Washington to a ball at Alexandria, and containing the expression, '' Alas ! our dancing days are over." I merely mention what you may consider to be rather trifling, to evince to you how ardently his memory is cherished, when such trivial mementos as these are thought important enough to be placed and exhibited in a public museum.
But I must now conclude, to enable me to despatch my letter by the next packet, which sails from New York on the 24th instant. Adieu !
t
71
LETTER IV.
Fire-flies — Description of Baltimore — the Washington Monu- ment— Baltimore and Ohio Rail-road — Cathedral — Battle Monument — Charles Carroll — Vanity of the Americans — the American Novelist — Description of Philadelphia — United States' Bank — Pennsylvania Bank — Comparative Tables of Population of Pennsylvania and Philadelphia — Gerard's Bank — State House — Fairmount Waterworks — Pennsylvania Hospital — the Navy-yard — the large Ship Pennsylvania — New Penitentiary — Systems of Prison Discipline — Churches, &c. &c. — Canals.
Baltimorey 25th June, 1831 . MY DEAR FRIEND,
Immediately after closin": the let- ter addressed to you from Washington, I again put myself en route for this place, accompanied by my Quebec friends, if they will permit me so to call them, than whom I never met any persons more amiable in all my travels. Indeed, I have never seen the bond of family union and kindness uniting its members more closely, or with more affectionate sympathy, than in the instance of these worthy people ; of whom I regret much to say, that the younger of the two ladies
72 BALTIMORE.
who, with a gentleman^ formed the party, was i very delicate health.
My return to Baltimore was unattended hf any thing worthy of remark, except, as the shades of evening came on, the peculiar interest that I felt in seeing thousands of those beautiful little insects the fire-flies, exhibiting, in endless variety of evolutions, their phosphoric sparkles, and which. I had so often watched with admiring pleasure oa the plains of Hindostan.
This city, of which I promised you a few details, is considered the third of the Unions estimating its importance by the extent of its population, which, according to the last census, taken in 1830, amounted to upwards of 80,000. Its growth has been most rapid within the last eighty years; since, in 1752, the town contained but twenty-five houses ; and, at that period, two small vessels comprised the whole of the shipping belonging to its port. Even in 1776, the entire population did not amount to 6000 ; so that, within the last fifty-seven years, it appears that it has had the enormous increase of about 74,000 — a ratio of progression which one in vain looks for in any other country than America. At the present moment, its harbour is crowded with sliips and vessels of all degrees of tonnage ; and it is considered, for flour and tobacco, the first market in the States, and for the former
FOPULATIOX OF BALTIMORE. 73
■tide perbaps the first in the world. Its manu* &etorieSy also, are numerous ; comprehending Aofie, principally, of cotton, cloth, iron, powder, ^as, paper, steam-engines, &c.
To enable you the better to judge of the rising importance of the capital of Maryland, in a flKitantile sense, I have inserted the following tabular view of its population since 1775; from ^'eh it appears, that its augmentation, within fl^last thirty years, amounts to upwards of 54,000 Mihabitants; having more than trebled itself within "M»t period. This numerical advance exceeds, ou comparison, that of all the other cities of the PnioD, with the exception of New York and J^Wladelphia ; the former having swelled its num- ^fif in the same series of years, by the unparal- leled increase of 142,518, or somewhere about 340 P^i'cent on its population in 1800.
Population of Baltimore at different Periods.
In 1775.. 5,934 In 1800.. 26,614 In 1820.. 62,738 1790. .13,503 1810. .46,555 1830. .80,625
The entire population of the state, according to the census of last year, rose to 440,913; of which 291,093 were whites, 102,878 slaves, and 52,942 were free coloured.
Baltimore is a handsome city, and contains a number of elegant private houses ; the windows and doorways of many of them being beautifully
VOL. I. E
74 BALTIMORE.
formed of, and decorated with^ white marble, comprises, also^ several superb public edifices; airi^ among these, the Washington monument is sapep— ^ eminent; but which should have been national^ anA not provincial, and erected in the capital instead. of at Baltimore. This truly magnificent structurB reflects as much honour and credit on the tasta, munificence^ and patriotic feeling of its worthjf citizens, as the Baltimore and Ohio rail-road (to which I shall more particularly allude) does on that spirit of enlightened and persevering enter- prise by which they are so much distinguished. For I must ingenuously declare to you that, comiog to America, as I did; with somewhat of a n^adve feeling, and with a predisposed view as to the arts of an extended civilisation existing amongit them, and where I was led to expect that the utilities of life were in a course of long precedence of its elegancies and refinements, I have been not more astonished than highly gratified to witnesB, among the Americans, many of the traits of even highly polished society. I do not mean in the back-woods, in the wilderness, or in the new settlements; but in their flourishing towns and cities. This, I know, will startle some people ; or, perhaps I should say, they will pretend to be startled, against their better knowledge and better judgment; for it has been sadly too much the fashion, and I lament much to say it, among
PUBLIC WRITERS ON AMERICA. 75
some of my countrymen, to underrate and to depreciate the progress which, for a number of years, has been and still is making, with rapid strides, by the enterprising inhabitants of the United States, in the refined and elegant arts of civilised society. Why this apparently envious feeling should exist — though I am quite satisfied that it is by no means generally diffused among us, but the reverse — I am perfectly at a loss to imagine. Is it supposed that a tribute of applause, of admiration^ of friendship, or of esteem — not to say of bare justice — given to the American people, is calculated to detract from the honours and merits of the mother-country, from whose very side these people have sprung ? Does our hard-earned, bat honest and exalted, reputation as Englishmen — a distinction in which, I confess, I myself glory — rest on so fragile a foundation, that every addi- tional stone placed on the rising basis of another man's edifice is to be considered as dragging down one from the superstructure of our own ? If this be so, the "sic transit gloria mundV* may be as appropriately applied to England, as far as great- ness and magnanimity of sentiment go, as to ancient Ghreece and Rome in respect to their departed power, physical as well as moral. It appears most obvious and natural, to my humble judgment, that in the precise ratio of the success manifested by the Americans — whether in aii:s
76 AMERICA THE BOAST OF ENGLAND.
or arms, in commerce or other spirited enterprise, in national or moral power, or in religious attain- ments— should be the honest pride and exultation which Englishmen ought to feel in favour of their Transatlantic brethren. For it will scarcely be denied that English blood flows in their yeins; since, if it be needful to establish their matemitj, the triumphant career they are pursuing, in all those things of a truly English nature which have conspired to make of us the great nation that we are, would be quite sufficient to prove the identity. Unless, therefore, a mother should be jealous of the dawning charms and maturing beauty of her daughter (in which case the world would justly say she began to feel conscious that her own had fled), we ought not to cast that obloquy, those bitter taunts, that cruel mockery and depreciation of their rising greatness and prosperity, in the very faces of the American people, in the mode too often adopted, and which disgraces, I am sorry to say, some of our public writers. It is true, America has been a rebellious child, and has incurred the more unpardonable fault of having been successful in her rebellion; but it is to be hoped that the mother and daughter have *' kissed and become friends" — have " forgiven and forgotten" long ago. If they have not, it is high time that they should; therefore, any attempt to stir up the dregs of ancient animosity, conse-
MONARCHY AND REPUBLICANISM. 77
qaent on former political contentions^ should be cried down by the general voice of the com- munity.
I do not make these observations as the eulo- gist of our friends on this side of the Atlantic, but in a sense of strict retributive justice ; neither is my understanding blinded, so as to prevent my perceiving the peculiarities attaching to their manners, and the defects and vices inherent in some of their practices — as what country and what individuals have them not? While, there- fore, I acknowledge that the republican govern- ment of the United States, as far as my experience goes, appeai*8 to work well, and for the general happiness of the people, and to be more suitable to the genius of their inhabitants than any other form ; yet I do most devoutly pray that it may never cross the ocean which separates us, to take root in British soil, to the tearing up by the foundations of the monarchy of England. Let the resemblance, in other respects, be as close as it may, save in this one ; for I am equally con- vinced, as regards our side of the question, that republican institutions would be the very worst that could be inflicted upon us — entirely repulsive to our feelings and manners, contrary to the bias of almost universal opinion, and subversive of that happiness which for so many centuries we have enjoyed, and which the contemplated reform
78 THE WABHIKGTOK MOITUMEKT.
in parliament is about to consolidate, I sincerely trust, in scecula scBculorum.
But I have been all this time wandering from my subject, which was a description of the Wash- ington monument. I may as well, then, plead guilty at once, by confessing the fact, that we have no column, whether monumental or otherwise, in England, at all comparable to the one at Balti- more, either in costliness of material or splendid beauty of appearance : indeed, I will fairly allow that I have seen none equal to it out of Italy.* It is built entirely of white marble, rising to an eleva- tion of 163 feet from the ground, and is surmounted by a colossal statue of the great patriot, 15 feet high, presenting of him an admirable likeness. The entire height, therefore, with the addition of the statue, is 178 feet. This noble column rests on a base of the same fine material, about 25 feet square and 12 feet high, and which is again sup- ported by a second and much more extended base of white marble, containing about double the square feet, as also double the amount in height of the superior one. The position of it is highly commanding; the eminence on which it
* Since the late improvements in the City of London^ the *^ Monument'' has been judiciously displayed to much more conspicuous advantage than formerly; but, imposing as it is, neither in its material nor position, nor yet, perhaps, as a model, does it equal that of Baltimore.
BALTIMORE AND OHIO RAIL-ROAD. 79
is elevated being such, joined to the advantageous drcnmstance of its being placed at the intersection of four streets, as to render it a conspicuous object from all the cardinal points of the compass. It 18 intended, also, that the area around it shall be planted with shrubbery, while the four sides of the base are to be adorned with sculptured devices emblematical of the states of the Union, and to which inscriptions are to be added recording the exploits of the hero, I will not inflict upon you a description of the beautiful prospect beheld from the summit of the monument, but leave it to your own fertile imagination to fancy ; merely sug- gesting, for the due exercise of your speculative powers, that the environs of this city are rich in natural scenery, and varied by all the requisites of hill and dale, wood and water, verdant mea- dows and well-cultivated lands, with heights em- bellished by country-houses, and the port crowded with innumerable vessels.
In nothing, however, do the Baltimoreans excel so much, in theirworks of labour and spirited enter- prise, as in the rail-roads they are constructing, of which that called the Baltimore and Ohio rail- road is the most prodigious work at present car- rying on in the United States. It is truly a vast undertaking, worthy of the spirit and talent of any country in the world, and confers an honourable distinction on the company from which it ema-
80 BALTIMORE AND OHIO BAIL-BOAD.
nates. This road is to extend as far as Pittsh burgh, on the river Ohio, a distance of between 300 and 400 miles, and will be travelled wifh the greatest possible ease, by steam, in twenty hoan. Of this distance about thirty miles are already com- pleted ; and in the effecting of which numennifl laborious obstacles have had to be surmounted — such as cutting through solid masses of granite, 58 feet above the surface of the road; forming deep cuts and embankments, in some places nearly a mile in length, and 70 feet in depth; besides erect- ing a number of bridges, viaducts, &c. of dressed blocks of granite, from one to seven tons in weight In addition to this rail-road, as if one, though more than 300 miles in length, was insufficient to occupy the attention of the worthy citizens, is an- other, in a course of formation, from Baltimore to York Haven, on the river Susquehannah, a dis- tance of about sixty miles ; and it is confidently expected that it will, when completed, engross the whole business of the river, down which, it is stated, nearly five and a half millions worth of property (in dollars) passed in the year 1826. The old pro- verb of '^ nothing venture, nothing have," was, I think, never more exemplified in any country, than at the present day in America.
Among other handsome specimens of taste and skill in architecture to be seen in this town, are the cathedral, the exchange, several public foun-
THE CATHEDRAL. 81
teinSy and the battle monument. The latter was erected in 1815, and is an elegant pillar of beautifnl marble, raised to commemorate the gaUantry and patriotism of those citizens who fell in defence of the citT, when attacked the previous year bv a Bridsh force. The cathedral is worthy of notice for the numerous ornaments and tasteful decorations contained within it; though little can be said in pfaise of its exterior, firom its want of symmetry and the jumbling together of different styles and orders. Bat I was more gratified than with any thing else, by seeing two specimens of the fine arts in the form of paintings, which struck me as posses- ang considerable merit. One of them represented St. Louis before Tunis, attended by his chaplain and armour-bearer, interring one of his officers who had been slain. This picture had been pre- sented to the cathedral by Charles X. The other was by Guerin, exhibiting the descent from the cross, splendidly executed, and was a gift from the unhappy Louis XVI.
Passing now from the streets, and the exterior of the buildings which form them, into the society of those by whom they are inhabited, you will find the comforts and conveniences, and many of the refinements, that are to be met with in Europe. I cannot but mention, that in private houses here, as in other towns and cities of the States, are to be seen highly ornamented Italian chimney-pieces of
e2
82 REPUBLICAN INSTITUTIONS.
the finest marble, and rare and elegant specimeni of Italian sculpture^ as well in statues and busts ai in various groups of marble figures, brought from the studio of a Florentine or Neapolitan sculptor. This speaks with tolerable plainness of an approxi- mation to the arts of polished life^ and requires no comment from me.
That republican institutions give a levelling tone to the manners and sentiments of those who live under their influence, I need hardly inform you; the effects of which I have, indeed, sometimes personally experienced, and with additional forpe from being entirely unaccustomed to them. But I have invariably found, thus far at least, that the higher classes, and the best educated of the Ame- rican community, are free from that coarseness and that presumption of demeanour which marks the inferior orders. Nor can this be an enigma to any one, except to those who are prejudiced against the belief of it ; since nothing is more certain than that education has a direct and natural tendency to polish the mind, and soften and refine the man- ners, so as even to make the educated republican a much more gentlemanly character than the un- educated aristocrat.
With respect to female beauty, Baltimore is said to present a greater display of it than any other city of the Union, and of which I have seen, during my short stay, many fair specimens. The
CHABLES CABROLL. 83
Style too of dress, at this place, is more agreeable to my taste than that of the ladies of New York ; being of a less flaunting and less ultra-fashionable description. At the head of society in Baltimore, which, as I have inferred, is very respectable and pleasant, is the venerable Charles Carroll, of Car- rollton, now, I believe, in his 93d year, and who is the last survivor of the band of patriots who signed and sent forth to the world the charter of American independence. His living presence seems almost to be as much respected as the memory of the de- parted Washington ; and though a stem republican, as may be supposed, from being one of the enthu- siastic signers of the declaration of freedom above alluded to, yet he has become closely allied to two of our most aristocratic families — his two grand- daughters being married to English noblemen ; one to the Marquess Wellesley, and the other to the Marquess of Carmarthen.
During my stay of a few days in Baltimore, I found the weather rather warmer than accorded pleasantly with my English temperament, though considerably less so than the degree of heat that prevails more to the southward. In order to afford you an idea of the range of the thermometer, dur- ing a portion of the month of June in this town, I have given you below a recorded observation of the rise and fall of the mercury during the first nine- teen days :
84 CLIMATE OF THE UKITED OTATEB.
State of the ThermometerinthePassa^eofBarniait City Hotel, from the \$t to the \Qth of June w-
clusive,
6a.m. 9a.m. 12m. 3p.m. 6p.m. 9p.m;
1 78.... 82.... 86.... 90.... 86.... 84
2 80 .... 83 .... 88 .... 90 .... 89 .... 84
3 79 .... 82 .... 87 .... 89 • . • • 87 .... 85
4 75.... 79.... 82.... 84.... 82,... 80
O •«....f<3(...i«*...f0....i4..«.ii6
6 71 ... . 70 .... 74 .... 75 ... . 76 .... 73
7 71 .... 74 .... 77 • • • • 78 .... 78 .... 77
8 71 ... • 76 .... 78 .... 80 • . • . 80 .... 75
•7 f\/....f<6..**74....iD....7o....f4
10 72. . . .76. . . .78. . . .80. . . .79. .^. .78
11 74 76.... 80.... 82.... 80.... 80
12 76 78..., 84.. ..85.... 84.... 82
1 3 77 .... 80 ... .81 .... 82 .... 82 .... 81
14 76.... 77.... 81.... 82.... 77.... 76
15 74. . . .74. . . .77. . . .78 80. . . .77
16 70 74. . . .78 80. . . .78. . . .76
17 73.... 77 .... 80 .... 82 .... 82 .... 81
18 77..,. 80.... 82.... 85.... 82 80
19 78 .. 79 83.... 86.... 86 84
Having arranged to take my departure in the morning to Philadelphia, I shall carry my pot- hooks and hangers along with me, and scratch a few more hieroglyphics on my letter, at that place, ere I despatch it to you.
Philadelphia^ Ut July, 1831.
You have heard frequent allusion made, no doubt, to the supposed vanity of the American
AMERICAN VANITY. 85
people; and^ I must say^ I was highly amused with the first conversation that I had with a citizen of the republic, on first coming out to this country. His patriotic egotism, if I may be allowed so to call it, exceeded any effusion of praise I had ever heard before ; nor could I refer to any art or science — laws or institutions — beauty of country or beauty of women — ships, colonies, or com- merce— by which we were characterised in Eng- land, without drawing forth from my rival ac- ■' quaintance a glowing description of something similar in his own country, surpassing each and all these excellencies in a hundred-fold degree — I beg his pardon, I believe he excepted colonies; but only then to declare that, sooner or later, the Americans would be possessed of these even more extensively and more abundantly than ourselves. If ever pedestal were erected in the world, on which to elevate the man who should laud his country to the skies with a more devoted and vehement enthusiasm than another, my honest friend was the person to whom the honour of a living conse- cration should have been assigned. Recollecting, as I then did, the affirmative opinions and declara- tions of Captain Basil Hall on this subject, and uniting his theory with the practical illustration alluded to, I confess I was quite inclined to agree with him, and to think our kinsfolk, across the Atlantic, the most marvellous blowers of the
86 AMBBICAN VANITY.
trumpet of their own fame that either modem or ancient times had ever sounded. But poseeai- ing, now, the light of better experience, I must here make a similar distinction to the one which I have previously made, in reference to the level- ling principles of republican institutions — that I have rarely found this passion to overpraise them- selves prevalent in the higher and best-educated classes of American society. Among the less enlightened orders of their community — half- schooled in knowledge, and therefore speaking with the inflated confidence and the less degree of modesty which ever accompany comparative ignorance — I have, not unfrequently, heard this excess of eulogium poured forth on the *^ Father- land" in disparagement of all the world beside. But of the sensible and clever men whom it has been my good fortune to meet in the States, and some of whom I am happy to consider among the number of my friends, I can scarcely remember any who have, in this respect, ^^ overstepped the modesty of nature." One exception, however, in the case of a well-informed and talented man, I must make — not as being among the persons whom I have met, but whose works I have read. The publication referred to is entitled Notions of the Americans y picked up by a Travelling liache" lor: in which the author throws out an insinu- ation that he is a Frenchman — a foreigner at all
THE AMERICAN NOVELIST. 87
events — when it is perfectly understood that the anonymous writer is the American novelist — nt)t Mr. Washington Irving. The fictitious character under which this gentleman writes, is evidently assumed for a double purpose ; first, of praising America, and every thing attaching to it, beyond all the bounds of reasonable eulogy, as a supposed disinterested stranger in the country, and whose views and opinions, therefore, were entitled to uni- versal credit, from their entire impartiality and ho- nesty of feeling; and, in the next place, under the garb of the same impartial and unprejudiced sentiments, reflecting with considerable asperity on England, and on most subjects of English association. This was, certainly, a ruse de guerre scarcely worthy of the candour and talent of an enlightened man, and the straight-forwardness of a republican. With respect to the first point, I should have passed it over with a smile : indeed, ardent love of country is highly laudable, and will excuse much of over-zeal in praising it ; and, bating somewhat of overflowing excess in his en- comiums, I would have heartily joined him in the homage of general and sincere admiration of his natale solum. But I cannot regard with equal complacency his evident hostility towards Eng- land; inasmuch as it appears to be entertained beyond the limits of fair and honourable rivalry. Much as has been objected to Captain Hall, and
88 THE AMERICAN NOVELIST.
Other writers, for supposed severity and injustioe of remark on the citizens of the United States, still, I must confggs, that whatever truth may be in the objections made against any or all of these writers, (by no means, T think, unfounded), there can be no doubt — '^ no mistake" — as to the Ame- rican author having vindicated his country's ho- nour— if recrimination be such — by the expres- sion of a jealous feeling towards the "old coun- try," equal to what the others have evinced towards the new one. I trust I shall not follow his ex- ample. Indeed I find, candidly, much more to admire than to condemn among our American friends ; and were it otherwise, I should still consider myself bound, as well as inclined from friendly feeling, to abstain from those invidious, scornful, and contumelious observations, which could only serve the very bad and uncharitable purpose of provoking hatred between two nations whose mutual interest it is to be more closely united than any other two on earth, and which, I truly hope, will one day come to pass !
Recurring to the point whence I have digress- ed, with respect to the vanity and pretensions of the Americans — and which I only in one or two instances found overweening or offen- sive among the well-educated ranks of society — I must honestly, and with sincere gratification, acknowledge, that they have great reason to be
THE UNITED STATES BANK. 89
vain, and to be filled with national exultation, when it is considered how much they have done, and what they have become, in so short a series of years as that which has elapsed since their re- volution. Take, for example, among a hundred other objects of practical illustration, the capital of Pennsylvania, whence I now address you ; and after walking through its beautiful and regular streets, lined with remarkably well-built and handsome houses ; viewing its public edifices and charitable institutions ; after strolling through its verdant squares and public promenades, adorned with trees and shrubbery of the richest and most lovely verdure, and on a summer s evening lighted up by the fairy lamps of the flitting fire-flies,^— I could easily conceive your sentiments. I think you would agree with me that, with the exception of the capitals of England and of Europe, you will see in no country cities and towns that reflect more credit and honour on the taste, on the arts, on the sciences, and, still better, on the charitable, moral, and religious feelings of its inhabitants, than the city of Philadelphia.
The United States Bank, for instance, in this place, is a truly splendid structure, of the Grecian order ; and would, from the chasteness of its style, and the beauty of its execution, vie in successful rivalry with many of the classic edifices on the European shores of the Atlantic. The plan of it
90 PENNSYLVANIA AND GEBABd's BANKS.
is taken from the Parthenon at Athens ; and ito material^ of which excellent quarries have been db* covered in the neighbourhood^ is of white maiUe. It has two beautiful fronts, oraamented with poi^ ticoes and fluted Doric columns ; the ascent finom the street to the principal entrance being bjr a handsome flight of marble steps. Besides HaM, in another part of the city, and of the Ionic order, is the Bank of Pennsylvania, composed also of the same costly material, and formed on the model of the ancient Temple of the Muses on the Ilissns; while, in another direction, you observe a third marble structure appropriated to the same pur- pose, belonging to Mr. Gerard, considered the richest man in the Union. This latter, by a tasteful variety of style, is constructed after the Corinthian order, and is decorated by a splendid row of six Corinthian columns.
And now, limiting my observation, for the present, to buildings of this kind, and of which I have just given you three most elegant speci- mens, I am compelled, in justice to the Americans, to say, that I have never seen in any one city, great or small, of the four quarters of the globe, three banks that could be compared in taste, ma- terial, design, or execution, with those of Phila- delphia. One such, in a town, I have seen, but three never ! I state this fact thus broadly, and fearless of contradiction, as I shall continue to do,
SK6LI8H FEELING MISREPRESENTED. 91
with eqaal impartiality^ respecting the various ob« jects that may come under my observation; because it strongly appears to me to be the unhappy fashion and bad taste of the day, to depreciate whatever is American. Instead of sympathising with the Inmest and laudable feelings of pride entertained by our American kinsfolk, on account of the pro- ^>erity of their country, which we ought to do, a spirit of jealousy is diffused among us, unworthy of a thousand associations of interest and good fiellowship that ought to cement between us an indissoluble union. I allude to our public wri- ters alone; for I am very happy in believing that these sentiments are not entertained by the community at large, among which a much better and more kindly feeling is spreading towards our brethren in the States, that will, I sincerely hope, rapidly grow up into a strong international com- pact of unbroken firiendship.
Though I feel rather delicate in giving you de- scription after description of various cities, build- ings, institutions, &c. for fear of wearj^ing your patience with the frequent monotony that must necessarily accompany it ; yet, as it is impossible to form even the rudest idea of a place unless some little outline be given, how straggling soever it may be, and as this is considered the most regularly beautiful city in the Union, I shall not dose my letter without giving you a few more notices about it. I must state, however, for your
92 SITUATION OF PHILADELPHIA.
encouragement, that I will spare you as often and as much as I can, consistently with my design to : give you a fair^ unvarnished, unprejudiced de- lineation of America such as she is, and as I found her in 1831. I will faithfully promise yoB one thing for the future, as I pledge you my can* dour with respect to the past, that I will
" Nothing extenuate, nor set down aught in malice."
I shall commence, then, by informing you that the position of Philadelphia is on the right bank of the Delaware, which is here about a mile broad, and 126 miles from the sea, and was founded by the benevolent William Penn, in 1682. The city possesses, according to the census of last year, a population of upwards of 167,000 inhabitants; and received, in 1829, into its port, 374 vessels from foreign countries, and 2210 coastwise; and in 1830, 416 from abroad^ and 3287 belonging to the States. After New York, therefore, it ranks the first, according to its num- bers; and is, in consequence of its rectangular form, the most regularly constructed of all the cities of the States. *The streets, which are kept remarkably clean, intersect each other at right angles, and present, in all directions, handsome public buildings and private residences, and are adorned, on both sides, by rows of flourishing trees, giving the whole a highly interesting character, and the semblance of a rus in . urbe. Indeed,
DBSIONATIOK OF STREETS. 93
the fieonily of trees have given their names to many of the principal streets; such as Chestnut Street, Walnut, Spruce, Pine, &c., while the rest are^ singularly enough, and with bad taste I thinks considering how copiously the vegetable world would have supplied much better names to the remainder^ called after the numerals ; begin- ning with what is called "First Street/' and con- tinuing as far as " Fifteenth," or " Sixteenth Street." The houses are particularly neat ; more uniform in size and quality, as are also those of New York and Baltimore, than are usually found in Euro- pean towns, and of which the brickwork is much to be admired, having a tinge given to it of a fresher and brighter colour than what is generally nsed in England, and being cemented together with the greatest nicety.
As colonized immediately from England, un- der a variety of interesting circumstances, I have given you below a comparative view of its popu- lation, as well as that of the State in which it is situated, at different periods from its origin ; evin- cing the great rapidity with which both have advanced. Indeed, so great was the increase in the city, that in less than a century, and in the lifetime of the first person born in it of European parents, it was calculated to contain 6,000 houses, and 40,000 inhabitants, including the suburbs.
94
TABLES OF POPULATION.
Population of Pennsylvania at different
Increase^
1701-1763 260,000
1763-1790 154,373
1790-1800 168,172
1800-1810 207,546
1810-1820 239,222
1820-1830 298,659
|
In |
Population. |
|
1701 |
20,000 |
|
1763 |
280,000 |
|
1790 |
.... 434,373 |
|
1800 |
602,545 |
|
1810 |
.... 810,091 |
|
1820 |
.. 1,049,313 |
|
1830 |
.. 1,347,672 |
SbvM.
3,737
1,706
795
211
366
Population of Philadelphia at different Periodic
In Population.
1731 12,000
1753 18,000
1790 42,520
1800 70,287
1810 96,664
1820 119,325
1830 167,811
In Dwdllqgi.
1700 700
1749 2,076
1763 2,969
1776 5,460
1790 6,651
1801 11,200
1810 15,814
Perhaps the most interesting (to an American) of all the buildings in the city is the State-house, where the Declaration of Independence was signed on the 4th of July, 1776, and whence it was pro- claimed to the then rebellious colonies. It is one of the oldest in the city, and is to be venerated more on account of its moral associations than of its architectural design. Independence Square, at the head of which it is situated, as also Wash-
STATE HOUSE. 95
ington Square^ a short distance from it, are the two beautiful promenades of the city, full of the most luxuriantly-growing trees and shrubs of the freshest verdure. Having ascended to the tower of the State-house, where a highly interesting view of the town and its environs is enjoyed, I had the great bell pointed out to me, that solemnly tolled the event of their declared independence to the enthusiastic inhabitants of that stirring period ; and which I was informed was rung, for the last time, on the passing of the Catholic Emancipation Bill. So that it would seem, whatever may be the reverse of the picture on the European side of the Atlantic — and of which, I feel rejoiced to say, I am not one who believes in the general existence of it — that American sympathy is not withheld from Great Britain on the occurrence of circumstances calculated to consolidate her in- terest or happiness. May the feeling be cherished on both sides, and the competition between us, henceforward, be a Christian rivalship in the arts of peace and mutual good-will!
I have alluded to the extreme cleanliness of the streets of Philadelphia — an observation that may, with justice, be extended to the whole city. This is owing, in a great measure, to the un- bounded supply of pure and excellent water pos- sessed by its inhabitants, independent of their national love of this essential quality of civilised
96 FAIR MOUNT WATER-WORKS.
life. The supply is sufficiently abundant l|^ admit of washing both streets and houses, as <NMf|[
sion may require ; and, in case of fire, offers iHt inexhaustible source for instantaneous applica&i| The fine and extensive water-works at Bit Mount, whence the stream flows into the towi^ situated on the romantic banks of the SchuylkS|: a couple of miles distant, are among the paUH works of which the Philadelphians are jnsfiy proud. The wE^ter is raised from the river inftf reservoirs elevated upwards of 100 feet above it# surface, by means of machinery capable of forciB||^ up seven millions of gallons in the conrse ti twenty -four hours. These works have beea effected, at the same time, at an enormous ex- pense, having cost (including the outlay of works afterwards abandoned) 1,443,585 dollars ; though the charge for raising the water per diem does not amount to more than the trivial sum of four dollars and a half. Nearly adjoining, lies Mr; Pratt's garden, delightfully situated on the river, and laid out in the English style, which, to an American who has not crossed the Atlantic, is one of the ckoses a voir. 'Hhe banks of this romantic stream are well worthy of a morning's drive, from the varied beauty by which their continual mean-* derings are characterised, and the elegant countrj- seats and hanging woods that embellish the mai^gin ' of the river. JifiS
PENNSYLVANIA HOSPITAL. 97
One of the most interesting objects that I have visitedy since I have been here, is the Penn- sylvania Hospital; an admirable institution found- ed by the excellent William Penn, and under the government of the Society of Friends, of whom there are many thousands of resident inhabitants, and whose superintendence over it is conducted with great zeal, order, and judgment. It is a handsome and spacious building, and contains within its area a considerable extent of garden- ground, adorned by orange and various other trees, and particularly by a full-grown scion of the tree under which Penn made his treaty with the Indians. It id appropriated equally to insane patients and to surgical and other cases. In one of the rooms of the establishment, expressly built to contain it, I was delighted to behold, in Ame- rica, that splendid picture by West, of " Christ healing the Sick in the Temple," and which I had first seen in England. It was presented to the institution by the late President of the Royal Academy, and is, as you know, aflfectingly beau- tifol, as well in its execution as design. I re- mained gazing on it for nearly two hours, having long sat out all the company who were present when I entered the room, or who came after- wards; till, at last, I became so absorbed and abstracted in its contemplation, that I fell fast asleep, and might have continued in that state
VOL. I. F
*■ ■■
98 ACADEMY OF ARTS.
for a cpuple of hours longer^ had not the attendr ant disturbed me by coming into the apartmeat to see \?hat I was about — suspecting, poarilify, that I might be packing up the picture and walking off with it.
I was as much delighted by seeing, in anodiflr part of the city, the equally fine and interesting painting, by the same celebrated artist, of " Chrilt Rejected/' and which has been lately broogbt across the Atlantic, for exhibition, by the lata President's son, to whom it belongs. From' the statement he made to me respecting the laige sums of money that he has realised, in ooih sequence of the numbers of persons who hafe crowded to see it in all the towns whither ho has taken it, I should augur very faYouraUy with regard to an increasing taste for the fine arts among the citizens of the republic. In this belief I feel confirmed, by having lately attended an exhibition of native talent, diversified by the works of foreign painters, in the Academy of Arts — a neat building devoted to this laudable p1l^ pose, and which presents a very creditable dispky of rising genius, and several specimens of good painting, particularly by Alston, who stands tt the head of his profession. This institutioOy I understand, offers an annual exhibition to the public, and is the true and, indeed, only mode of forming national taste. Several of the foreign
LITEBART ESTABLISHMENTS. 99
paintings are the property of Joseph Baonaparte, who resides in unostentatious retirement in the neighbouring village of Bordentown; — one of them being by David, the French artist, and rejNresents Napoleon crossing the Alps ; and ano- ther, a portrait of Joseph himself, as King of Spain. In addition to these, the Academy con- tains a collection of statues, among which are Canova's Graces ; and various busts, some in marble and others in plaster.
The literary and philosophical establbhments in this fine city are at once numerous and highly respectable, reflecting much credit on the moral and intellectual character of its inhabitants. Of the former, constituting the city library and the moBt considerable, is the Franklin Institute, con- taining 24,000 volumes, and which owes its origin to the great man from whom it borrows its name. The others are the Loganian collection, forming about 11,000 volumes ; the AthenaBum, consisting of 6,300. ; and the Academy of Natural Sciences, comprising about 5000. Of the latter, is the Philosophical Society, whose library contains about 6000, and their rooms a valuable afipa- ratoa of scientific and philosophical instruments. With respect to scholastic instruction, the oldest seminary of learning in Pennsylvania is the one that was incorporated by William Penn, the
100 SHIP PENNSYLVANIA.
worthy founder of the city, under the title of " Free Public Schools."
Of course, as an Englishman, I paid a Tint to the navy-yard of Philadelphia, which struck me as much superior to that of New York, in neatness, arrangement, and in the greater quan- tity of stores that it appeared to possess ; hav- ing neither seen shot nor guns on visiting tbe latter. It lies on the Delaware, about a mik from the city, and contains — for which I west especially to see it — the greatest naval curioeitj in the United States, or perhaps in the world: being the largest line-of-battle ship that has ever been built in any country. She is called the Pennsylvania. I am not quite sure, at the same time, that there is not one still larger, by some few inches, belonging to the Turks; but as the latter do not know quite so well as the Americans how to command their navv, it does not much signify should it be true. However, be this as it may, the Pennsylvania is certainly a superb ship, and her timbers are magnificent. She has four decks, and is intended to carry from 140 to 160 guns, and 1400 men — having counted, myself, 160 port-holes, but which I afterwards understood from a professional gentleman were not all of them pierced for guns. To give you some idea of her enormous size, I must state her
PSUON BI8CIPLINE. ' 101
dimeorions, which are the following: her entire kngth 18 220 feet ; her breadth of beam, 57 feet ; and from the upper deck to the keel^ in depths 45fieet.
That this splendid specimen of naval archi- tecture may remain on the stocks, a mere gazing f woodery till her timbers drop from her in absolute decay, 18 my most sincere wish — founded on the best, because the most charitable, of all reasons ; namely, that no futnre time may ever behold the two nations again engaged in hostile collision with each other. In this case, the proud Penn- sylvania will never, most probably, ^* gallantly ride the waves," to hurl the thunderbolts of war, and thus break a peace which I trust will be eternal.
And, now, in order to preserve my uncon- scionably long letter from the flames before you shall have come to the conclusion of it, I promise to give you, for the present, but a single descrip- tion more, and one or two observations respecting the new penitentiary which has been lately erected at this place, with the view of trying an experi- ment on prison discipline. As the Americans have bestowed deep and close attention on this subject, you will wish to hear something about it, though I cannot now give you a comparative opinion till I shall have seen the rest. The principle consists in the prisoners being kept in the closest solitary confinement; the excellence or disadvantage of
102 PENITENTIARY AT PHILADELPHIA.
which is intended to be tested by a trial of the effects flowing from the practice here as compand with the system adopted at Sing Sing and it Auburn^ the two principal prisons in the Slite of New York. In these latter the prisoners are allowed the consolatory indulgence of working together, under the supervision of inspectors^ yM still without being permitted, for a single moment, to hold oral communication. The prison itMlf is an extensive square, of handsome granite con- struction; and its appearance, particularly that of the gates, has, at a distance, a considerable re- semblance to a fortress. The interior is formed in radiated lines from a common centre, like Ike originally projected streets of Washington fVom the Capitol. This centre is a small octagonal room, placed in the middle of the square, and occupied by one of the keepers, from which the galleries immediately branch off; so that with a glance of his eye, turning round on his heel, he can look down every one of them, and ascertain in an instant if all is right ; the reverberation of sound, in consequence of the arched roofs, beii^ such, that the slightest disturbance, or attempt to escape, is immediately heard. The cells are formed on each side of these galleries, and through the smallest imaginable hole in the doors of them each prisoner's occupation is at once and thorough- ly discovered. Of this unseen supervision, as the
PENITENTIARY AT PHILADELPHIA. 103
unhappy felon is perfectly conscious^ without the pofieibility of his knowing when the eye of the keeper may be upon hiiUy he is kept in a state of constant fear and of constrained good behaviour, beyond what he would feel if his gaoler were present before him.
The wretched beings who are here immured, — some of them for a long series of years, propor- tioned to their crimes, — are never permitted to see the countenance of a human creature, except oc- casionally their keeper, and sometimes the clergy- man who attends to their spiritual reformation, to assist whose admonitions Bibles are placed in each cell. For the general and profitable occu- pation of their time, work is now given to them, contrary to the former practice, according to the baainess they may have exercised ; and if ignorant of any, they are taught some kind of trade, which may support them in honesty after the terra of their incarceration shall have been completed. It was, in the first instance, gravely determined, no doubt with good motives, but with a most mis- tiiken judgment, to condemn to solitary confine* meat .without labour; the efiect of which, leaving out of consideration the negative consequence of the loss of profit arising from their work, would have operated, I fear, more on the brain than on the heart.. If the former, however, should have remained untouched, it would have left a vicious
104 PENITENTIARY AT PHILADELPHIA.
mind more than ever a prey to the dissolute w<ffk^' iugs of its own unoccupied thoughts ; and, in till end, it would have been indisputably discoyerad, that the *^ last state of that man would have beoi worse than the first." With respect to the suceeiB of this experiment, besides being half- a -dozen times more costly than other prison establish* ments, it appears, to my humble judgment, likely to end in failure ; for I am strongly inclined to believe, that the supposed superior reformation of morals, expected to be derived from the systenii would, in the majority of instances of persons confined for a series of years, terminate in aeli^' murder or insanity. The former would be dit*^ posing efiectually, and for ever, of these unfortunate wretches ; but which neither humanity coaU justify, nor the wished-for operation of the prin- ciple, by the benevolent persons who have proposed it; is intended to produce. But, even on the ail- ment that the moral reformation contemplated in this penitentiary would equal that which is at- tained, as I understand, at Auburn and a{ Sing Sing, still its enormously greater expense would proportionably decrease its value. So that to raise this system, with all its additional cost, into a jpreference, it must be clearly proved that the moral consequences are more extensive and per- manent than either of the other two ; for, if only equal, it would be bad from the excess of expense*
4
PENITENTIARY AT PHILADELPHIA. 105
I am credibly informed^ that the work performed fay the criminals in the two prisons referred to^ in the State of New York, exceeds in value the cost incurred in maintaining the establishment. This is a considerable advantage; and which, when coupled with the steady habits of industry taught their guilty inmates, and the comparative cheer- fulness in which their minds are kept; by seeing around them the signs of humanity in the persons of their fellows in misfortune, though not allowed to communicate with them either by word or sign, willy I think, beyond a doubt, establish the claim of the latter to a priority in excellence over the penitentiary at Philadelphia. I shall now leave the subject, and refer to it again in a future letter, after having paid a visit to these prisons, or one of them, as they are both on the same principle^ in the course of my tour.
I cannot conclude this, I fear, wearisome letter, without informing you of what I know you will be gratified to learn ; and to which, I am aware, you will assign the first place^ both as to import- ance and interest, among the various public edifices and institutions already brought to your notice. It is this — a good sign, you will allow, that religion is by no means neglected in the capital of Penn- sylvania— there are in the city eighty-eight churches, chapels, and other places of public wor- ship ; accompanied too, which is the best praise
f2
106 ANECDOTB.
of the commnDity that either I or any one eke can bestow on them, by every appearance that religion is not a nominal, but a vital feelii^ among the inhabitants. To this all-essential topic I shall recur on a future occasion, when I shall have more leisure, and you will have recovered from the effects of the large epistolary dose which I have just administered to you. I feel inclined^ nevertheless, to relate to you an anecdote respect- ing what occurred to a very gentlemanly Swede at Philadelphia, whose acquaintance I had the pleasure of forming, as illustrative of the tone of morality pervading as well the lower as the higher classes of society. His name, which is somewhat singular, is *' Damme ;" and it appears that^ after remaining a few days at the hotel, he was stepping into the coach in order to leave the town, when, in consequence of the servant having omitted to receive the amount of his bill from some one of the passengers, and not being aware which t>f the gentlemen it was, he inquired his name. My ac- quaintance immediately replied, " Damme !" The servant looked rather astonished, but fismcying he must have misunderstood the answer, repeated the question ; when the other, supposing the man was deaf, answered in a louder voice, " Damme." The domestic immediately on hearing the expres- sion for the second time, and believing that the gentleman was swearing at him for his interrup-
PUBLIC EBIFICBS. 107
tion, instead of simply giving his name, regarded him with a yery stem countenance, and said, ^* Sir, we are not accustomed to hear such lan- gBAge as this in Philadelphia/' and instantly tamed finom him in the greatest indignation !
Of the remaining public buildings unnoticed, I shall content myself by merely naming them ; and which, as a faithful journalist, I could not aToid doing. These are, the United States mint, just constructed, and highly beautiful both in design and execution; the university, accounted the most richly endowed in the States, and of imposii^ appearance; an elegant model of an asylum for the deaf and dumb ; a handsome masonic hall and theatre ; a museum, in which, among a vast variety of curiosities, is seen the most perfect skeleton of the mammoth that was ever exhibited, &c. &c. And were I, in addition, to describe to you the various, and some of them prodigioas canab, forming in different parts of the State of Pennsylvania, and which the year before last were under contract, and amounted in extent to 428 miles, of which the Pennsylvania canal alone is to ran through a course of 314 miles, I should add as much more to my over- charged letter as what I have already given you. Bat I am quite satisfied; though I am rather afraid that, with respect to yourself, I have greatly overstepped the boundary as to length, within
108 PROSPERITY OF THE UNITED STATES.
which your satisfaction would haye been more unqualified^ and your patience less disturbed. However, a review of what I have now given you respecting Philadelphia, as well as my previous accounts of New York, Baltimore, and Washing- ton, will, I am sure, quite convince you of the great and growing prosperity, enterprise, industry, power, and resources of the people of the United States. And, now, adieu !
109
LETTER V.
Bordentown — Joseph Buonaparte — Sudden Change of Tem- perature— Climate of the States — ^Anniversary of America^ Independence — Universal Rejoicings on the occasion — Dinners — Processions, Fireworks, &c. — Beauty of the American Ladies — Calashes to conceal their Charms — Museum at New York — Passage up the Hudson to West Point — Military Academy at West Point.
West Fqinty 6M Juhfy 1831. MY DEAR FRIEND^
After passing upwards of a week in the beautiful city of Philadelphia, much de- lighted and interested with the varied and gratify- ing objects which it contains, so worthy of the notice of a traveller ; and not the less pleased that I could eat my dinners at leisure, and in Christian comfort, at that excellent hotel the Mansion-house, without the necessity of bolting my meals, as at New York, at the risk of sundry indigestions, I arrived once more at the capital of Manhattan island. I reached New York just in time to wit- ness the overflowing effusions of patriotism con- sequent on the anniversary of the national inde-
110 BOBIXBNTOWN.
pendence. Anxious, howeyer, to see the galleiy of paintings, sculpture, and other curiosities, of llie ex-King of Spain, Joseph Buonaparte, I stopped on my way at Bordentown, a small village on the Delaware, twenty-eight miles from Philadel- phia, in the immediate vicinity of which he resides, in all the seclusion of the most retired private gentleman. Unfortunately, the Comte de Smv* villiers, the title he assumes, was absent ; having left Bordentown only the day before; and his mansion was closed to all the world, except to the servants who had charge of it, and who had orders never to shew it during his absence; in conse- quence, as I understood, of some injury having been done to one or two of the statues, on a pre- vious occasion, when their owner was from home. I was obliged, therefore, to content myself by rambling about his extensive pleasure-grounds, and enjoying, from the pavilion erected on the banks of the river, the splendid scenery of the Delaware. Though apparently identified with the republic, having now resided within it for many years, yet the count stands aloof altogether from politics, having never exercised the rights and functions of a citizen of the States. This does not, of course, prevent him from being highly respected by his neighbours, among whom he bears the character of an amiable and charitable man. On proceeding afterwards to New York, I ex-
y ICI8SIT17DES OF WB ATHER . Ill
perienced, while in the steam-boat, one of those sudden yicissitades of we^ither so frequent in the dunate of North America, and which^ on the present occasion, contrasted rather too violently with the previous operation of jolting in a coach frtun Bordentown to New Brunswick. This I had just undergone^ with nine inside, on a sultry mondng, and youi* humble servant squeezed «lmoet to the consistency of calTs-foot jelly between two corpulent Americans, while, ever and anon^ our coach was tossing and pitching abont like a little schooner in the Bay of Biscay. The day had been remarkably warm, and, as an agreeable relief, I had been cooling myself under the slender covering of a white linen jacket, or, 88 it is termed here, *^ roundabout;'' when, almost instantaneously, without any previous symptoms of change, just as we entered the river Rariton, a raw, chilly, damp wind commenced blowing, and was shortly afterwards succeeded by as com- plete a drizzly Scotch mist as I ever felt on the highland moors of Old Caledonia. I was very " fieun/' as the rustics say, to pull oflF my lawn sleeves, or what was nearly as thin, and quite as comfortless, and put on good honest broad-cloth, and felt quite disposed to throw a well-lined cloak over that, but which I had left behind me at New York. To supply the deficiency, however, I walked below deck into the cabin, where I re-^
112 CLIMATB OP AMEBIOA.
xnained till we reached our destination. I had not my thermometer within reach, and therefiare could not consult it ; but I should imagine that the mercury must have fallen at least fifteen degrees in the course of half an hour, which, in the month of July, was an atmospheric occurrence that I had not expected to meet with.
I may as well take the present occasion to observe, with respect to the climate of the States, that though the weather is much hotter in sum- mer, and colder in winter, thain in England, yet it appears to me, from several previous instances, though not so remarkable as that which I have just mentioned, that the changes of American temperature are more rapid and violent than they are found to be on our side of the Atlantic ; pro- verbially variable, notwithstanding, as our climate is. With regard to the extremes of 8ummer*s heat and winter's cold, in the northern and middle states of the Union, I believe it is not unusual, in the former season, to see the mercury rise to 90 and 100, nor, in the latter, to see it fall in some seasons to 20 degrees below zero.
The greater intensity of heat and cold which is found to prevail in the United States beyond what is perceptible in Europe, under the same parallels, is a subject of interesting inquiry. The thermometer, in the New England States, is ascer- tained to fall as low as zero more frequently than
CLIMATE OF AMERICA. 113
it i8 seen to be depressed to the freezing point, in a aimilar latitude, on the eastern shores of the At- lantic. The contrary extreme of heat in summer is, likewise, more considerable by between ten and twenty degrees. The problem, with respect to this remarkable difference of climate, is attempted to be solved, and with much appearance of reason, by the consideration of the respective countries being situated on different sides of the ocean, and by the prevalence of westerly winds. In America, these latter constitute a land-wind, and produce, as a necessary consequence, confirmed by observation, greater cold in winter, and heat in summer; while the very reverse takes place on the opposite shores of the Atlantic, where the same westerly current of air, proceeding from the water, gives mildness to the winter, and refreshes the summer months with cooling breezes.
I obsei'ved, that I just arrived in time to wit- ness the ceremonies of the " glorious 4th of July," being the 55th anniversary of American Inde- pendence ; and I must say, that the night which preceded the ushering in of the " never-to-be-for- gotten morning," was, if not the most restless, certainly one of the most so, that I ever expe- rienced in my life. From the hour of nine in the eTening, throughout the live-long night, were the worthy and patriotic republicans signalising their obstreperous joy for the forthcoming day, with
114 THE AMERICAN FOURTH OV JVhY.
the most noisy, disoordant^ stanningy and ceaaeleM demonstrations of zeal, that ever mortal man, in a state of unhappy drowsiness — for such, unfiir- tunately, was my case at the moment — was doomed to suffer. Crackers, rockets, serpenta^ guns and pistols, drums and trumpets, ratdes, frying-pans, marrow-bones and cleaTers, and aU sorts of similar music, were in full operation at the self-same moment; — ^hissing, cracking, whii- zing, exploding, rumbling, clanging, rattling, dinging, and braying, all the night long, and in one combined and ceaseless chorus. I b^an, at length, to belieye that pandemonium had broken loose, and got up to barricade the door. Ima- gine to yourself, if you can, a more entirely helpless state than the one in which I was placed : in bed, naturally very sensitive of sound, the candle put out, so drowsy that I could scarcely open my eyes, and yet without the power of closing my ears, which rendered the somniferous operation of the other sense perfectly nugatory; for I should have had a chance of getting to sleep if I could have shut my ears and opened my eyes. Notwithstanding all this — quite bad enough for mortal man to endure — I had not yet come to the worst ; for, in an instant, ^' at the witching hour of night," all the church-bells in the town began tolling and ringing with extraordinary and mysterious violence ; on which, unable any longer
THE AMERICAN FOURTH OF JULY. 116
to maintain my recumbent position, I started out of bed, and looking towards the window, beheld a terrific mass of flame and smoke rising up be- fore it, like an eruption from a volcano. I had scarcely time to contemplate the awfiil confla- gration before me^ and which seemed raging at no inconsiderable distance, when half-a-dozen fire-engines came rattling along the street at a most rapid pace^ accompanied by a multitude of people screaming out ** fire !" with stentorian voices, alarming the whole town from its propri- e^ — not awakening them, for I should imagine that there was not one " wink of sleep*' enjoyed on that memorable occasion by a single individual in New York. In a state of forlorn hope as to rest for that night, I now dressed myself, and hearing persons moving about the passages of the hotel, whom the alarm had called from their beds equally with myself, I managed to obtain a light. At first I entertained the idea of going to the fire ; but, on second considerations, knowing but too well what was the boisterous state of the town, and that, from the multitudes of people in the streets, there could be no lack of assistance in putting it out, I determined to remain Tihere I was ; and took up a book, more in mockery, one would imagine, than in real earnest, in order to while away the wearisome hours. I looked fix- edly on the book, to be sure, but without reading.
116 THE AMERICAN FOURTH OF JULY.
or at least understanding, a single word ; till at length the joyful morning broke upon me, I will venture to say with as much real joy, from grate- ful contrast to the horrors of the nighty as it did on the most merry-minded and stout-hearted vin- dicator of American Independence.
On walking through the town after breakfast, I found that a whole ^' block'* of houses had been burnt down ; and was sorry to perceive (and not for the first time)^ in one or two of the journals, that it was strongly suspected to have been fired by some diabolical incendiary. Have some of our horrible stack-burners crossed the Atlantic, to escape from the justice of their own country? Whatever may be the cause of the frequent fires that occur, and which I have no doubt, with pos- sibly an occasional exception from incendiarism, proceed from the circumstance of many of the inferior houses being constructed of wood; yet I never was in a town where such constantly occurring fires take place as in New York. I have passed ten nights there; and I believe that in nine out of the ten I have had my rest dis- turbed in the " dead of night" by a conflagra- tion somewhere or other — the ringing of church- bells, an alarm, and shouts of '* fire!" and the rat- tling of fire-engines, &c. With the dawning light, however, all alarm, and every other consideration, was absorbed in one great and universal senti-
THE AMERICAN FOURTH OF JULY. 117
ment. Tliis, in short, was " the day," " the day of all the year ;" and every thing was in com- motion, and overflowing with as joyous an ex- hibition of private and public feeling as can well be conceived. The genius of republican triumph, represented by that potent personage the " ma- jesty of the people/* typified by the moving masses of exulting thousands that filled the streets, stepped with every foot, and lighted up every eye ; and, in addition to the delicate jocularities and interesting serenade of the previous never- to-be-foi^otten night — still increasing and swell- ing louder and louder as the day advanced — were now superadded the congratulatory roarings of a hundred discharges of cannon. Next came on a grand military parade, — the various regiments and detachments, in full muster, with bands playing and flags waving, passing in a kind of review through the principal streets of the city ; while the corporations and other processions of the diffisrent trades, their banners displaying all the colours of the '* many-tinted iris," stalked along in all the enthusiasm of feelings big with the bright remembrance of the day of their liber- ation.
The Americans, like the English, in good honest John Bull fashion, nourish the sentiment that interests them with a luxurious dinner and gene- rous wines. These, served up with a dessert of
118 DINNERS AND SPEECHES.
highly -flayoured speeches on independence and love of country, and garnished by a spioe or two of side-long jealousy of the " old country,** which, on such an events could scarcely be expected to be otherwise, but is, I hope, fieust wearing away, serve to cherish and keep warm the passion till the revolving anniversary shall again come round. This '^ feast of reason and flow of soul," there- fore, took place at the City Hall, where, I must say, the highly tasteful arrangement of the dinner- tables, of which there were five, and the decora- tions of the room, would have done no discredit to a corporation-dinner in London.
The 4th of July, in short, is the American 5th of November, kept up with not merely a national, but universal enthusiasm, spread through all the ranks of society, infinitely beyond the mere boy's play of our anti-popery festival. At their anni- versary dinners, in celebration of this jubilee, public orat.ors are expressly appointed to com- memorate, in speeches brimfiil of the amor patriot y their emancipation from a despotism which they consider themselves as happy to have escaped as we from the tyranny of Catholic as- cendency.
As the better and fairer half of creation are, by the unchanging laws of corporation -dinners and aldermanic feasts, entirely excluded from all participation in the revels — with what taste and
THB LADIE8 OF AMERICA. 1 19
jQStioe to the fisdr, though unpolitical sex, I shall not stop to inquire — a lighter repast of unintoxi- ca<tii^* fire-works was, in the present instance, prepared for them in the Battery Gardens. As the shades of night thickened around, a crowd of belles, distinguished alike for beauty and Parisian costume, flocked to the gay and illuminated am- phitheatre, equally eager, with the ruder sex, to tiBStify their exuberant patriotism on this joyous ~ day. I may here take the opportunity of saying, before I explode the fire-works and terminate the gala, that, with respect to the personal attractions of the ladies of the United States — having now seen four of the principal towns of the Union — I must frankly acknowledge that I do not think they have, by any means, degenerated by being transplanted fix>m the British to the American soil ; and on the supposition of their possessing as much real worth as personal beauty, which I am most willing to concede to them, they need ask fi\>m nature no other boon in order to render them at once both pleasing and estimable. The ladies of Philadelphia appeared to me, as far as my limited opportunities of seeing them extended, to possess as many claims to this distinction as any that I have seen elsewhere ; but they struck me as being too recluse in their habits, in comparison witli the New York ladies — too covetous of their charms, by secluding themselves at home, as if they had all
120 THE LADIES OF AMERICA.
taken the " veil," and converted their houses into so many nunneries, — that, like certain roses, or like the wild flowers of the desert, they seem " bom to blush unseen." Their fair neighbours of Manhatr tan island pursue a less exclusive course, and, instead of wasting all their fragrance at home, display beneath the glowing canopy of heaven the beauty they have borrowed thence ; and if I could only persuade them to exhibit their accomplish- ments on the lovely terrace of the Battery, instead of constantly perambulating the dusty avenues ol Broadway, I should flatter myself with having done much to rescue that delightful promenade from its present undeserved state of neglect, as well as their taste from just criticism.
As I have commenced, in these reforming times, to be somewhat of a reformer myself, I feel inclined to try the experiment in a foreign land, before I venture too deeply in my own ; and, though apparently a very ungallant thing, the first attack I should make would be directed against the odious calashes worn so frequently by the ladies of New York, and occasionally by those of other cities. Being totally unaccustomed, in England, to see this outlandish head-gear worn by any of the sex, except by ancient matrons of ninety or a hundred, I almost wondered on what antediluvian generation I could have &llen, when, on stepping on shore at New York, I beheld
FIRE^ WORKS. 121
joang ladies, possessing youth, beauty, and ele- gance, eclipsing all their charms beneath so un- becoming a costume. What the convenience may be that is attached to it, or what the secret of the toilette connected with its use, I cannot even goesB; but as I have candidly confessed that nature has been lavish in her gifts to them, it would appear rather ungrateful to her, as well as mjust to themselves, to conceal and disfigure the vork which she has taken so much care to adorn.
But the lights are now all extinguished, and the fire-works exploding. The principal part of the display, which was really excellent, consisted of a representation of the French fleet attacking Algiers, and was managed with great skill and in- genuity. I noticed, however, that the fire-workers supplied the barbarian batteries with three times ^ much ammunition, and their cannon with three times as many charges, as they did the flfiet; which latter, as being victorious, may be supposed to have had the advantage in rapidity of firing, as in every other respect. The evening's ^usement went off admirably ; and, by eleven odock, I was rejoiced to find every thing as much 'unshed and as tranquil as the previous evening '^ been deafening and distracting.
I omitted to mention one circumstance, con- nected with the day, and which, as exhibiting a ^^ remarkable coincidence, may be worth re-
VOL. I. G
122 AMERICAK MU6BVM.
lating. It is the deaUi of Mr. Monroe, one of Ae ex-Presidents, on the rery morning of this tc&nK versary ; he being the third ex-President of As United States, out of seven who have filled dM presidental chair, who has died on the 4th «f July.
Before leaving New York, for the seoend tifMy I visited the American mu6enm> accounted As most extensive of any in the States. It ccmtaiai i spice of every thing— birds, beasts, and fisfaet*^ creatures crawling on the earth and under the eartib — from the ponderous elephant down to Ate slim English greyhouiidy of which there was u- slu£^ specimen — and from a huge boa constrio^ tor down to a mole. One of the rooms eontaiBed a number of Indian warriors and their squaws, in wax, dressed in their picturesque native costame; besides a thousand Indian implements and curi-' osities. Dot the most singular exhibition wa0 that of working the machinery of a cotton and woollen mill, by means of four powerful mastiff dogs walking on a rotatory floor, and thus giving motion to the wheels which put the whole into action : the principle being similar to our jannt on the rail-road, to which I have previously al- luded. The poor dumb animals were highly sagacious, and appeared to know their business to admiration, and only to want the gift of speedi to have enabled them to turn manufocturers them*
PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 123
aeLyes. In the comer of another room I was mach interested by seeing preserved a pieee of the edbi of the unhappy Major Andr6, whose miser- able fiite^ die Americans^ to the credit of their good and humane feelings^ seem much to lament, ind his memory to respect.
On the dth of July I took my departure^ once ■ore, from New York, in order to proceed to West Point, distant from it fifty miles, and situ- ated on the lovely banks of the Hudson. This is tile site of the military academy of the United States ; an excellent and interesting institution, of thieh and of the enchanting scenery around it, I AdI give you some few details, that I hope will idbase you. The day was clear and most inviting ; dioi^, to my more northern temperament, rather too hot — the thermometer being between 80 and 90. A gentle breeze, however, came floating akog the placid waters of the Hudson, that ttemed to glow beneath the fervid rays of the sun, throwing a charm of light and life over the ever- vaiying landscape which met our eyes in every direction. Under the awning of our noble steam- boat, the North America — a mode of conveyance, ai I have said before, which constitutes the very ^tmhideal of luxurious travelling — I was at lei- *Bre to enjoy the diversified prospect spread out, ^ a map before me, on each bank of the river. To die right lay the city, gleaming over the
124 PASSA.OE UP THE HUDSOK.
limpid and expansive strdam, extending between two and three miles along our course, present- ing a proud array of churches and steeples, sm- gazines and storehouses^ and the profiles oft dozen handsome streets; while^ on the oppositB j shore, distant from the town about a mile and a quarter, is seen New Jersey city, delightfully shaded with trees, and planted on a point of laai jutting out into the water. Farther on, appeir the beautiful pleasure-grounds of Hoboken; mi still onwards the fine semicircular sweep of the woody heights of Wehawk, with the hills struck- ing away to the north, and the luxuriant meadows that crown their sides. As we advanced we came to the Palisadoes, a highly picturesque range of rocks rising abruptly from the river, to the height, in some places, of between 500 and 600 feet, and extending for a distance of twenty miles along its banks. With Tarrytown, which was pointed out to me, some disagreeable associations were con- nected ; for here it was that the unfortunate Major Andre was made prisoner, during the war of the Revolution, when on his return from a clandestine meeting with General Arnold, with whom he had been secretly treating for the surrendering of West Point to the English, and who was afterwards executed at Tappan, some distance higher up the river.
Tappan Bay, where the town is situated, as
THE HIGHLANDS. 125
well as that of Haverstraw, higher up the stream, presents the greatest expansion of the river throughout its course, and bears a perfect resem- blance ip a considerable lake — the breadth from shore to shore being about four miles. It is oppo- site the northern extremity of the former bay, on the left bank of the river, that the state-prison of Sing Sing is situated ; the examination of which I deferred to a future opportunity, as I was anxious to reach West Point.
And now we had what are called the High- lands, or Fishkill Mountains, in full perspective before us ; and, in a short time afterwards, found ourselves passing under the deep shadows of their beautiful and romantic sides. The mingling here of the ** sublime and beautiful'' is no picture of the imagination, but exhibits the magnificent crea- tions of nature in her most engaging forms. These mountains rise immediately and abruptly from both banks of the river, along which they extend through a distance of twenty miles, and present as beautiful and varied a scenery, according to my recollections, as the very finest portions of the banks of the Rhine. To an American especially, the interesting union of the moral association with the natural charms of the ever-diversified land- scape must be most grateful, as well for its efiect on the eye as on the heart ; for here, amid scenes of the utmost wildness and grandeur, calculated
126 THE HtOHLAKDB.
to excite the coldest patriotism to deeds of dij- valrous daring, were executed some of the im- portant achievements of the rerolationary war. You do not behold, it is true, the proud batds- ments and picturesque fortresses, the fine dd baronial castles, *^ famed for deeds of arms»" that crown, in stately pride, the rocky heighto and summits of the European river ; bat sa American sees, and points out with e3niltatioDy the sites of many a warlike exploit that occurred during that eventful period, and which form lor him the classic ground of his native land. To the most indifferent lover, however, of the pe- turesque, the highland scenery of the Hnd9<m must come recommended by an all -awakening interest ; nor, in the estimation of the far-travelled eye, if I may so speak, will the recollections of the favoured spots of the earth cast into shade these secluded haunts of unexceeded lovelinees. Here, as on the Rhine, you behold the most de- lightful and abrupt meanderings of the stream, which, ever and anon, occasioned by the acute angles of its shores, forms itself into the appear- ance of broad and expansive lakes, to which there seems no outlet at either end; while swelling from the margin of the water, in graceful sweeps and imdulations, is beheld the verdant and lux- uriant forest, clothed with stately and majestic trees.
WBST POINT. 127
The Tiew of West Point, where I leA the steaner, prefienls from the river an object of tbe most romantic beauty^ rising to a copaiderahle aUtttde abo¥Q its waters, and spreading out into a fine extensive terrace, overlooking the course of the stream, and eshibiling, among other inter- eeliiig varieties, the simple but elegant marble laaaument cf the Polish patriot Kosciusko.
West Point was one of the strongest posts of the Ammcaaa during the war, and offers a posi- tion the most judicious that could possibly have been selected fin* the establishment of a military edU^e, which has beesi here erected. Several misucceesftd attemplis were made by the English, at that period, to gain possession of the place; aad, among tJiese, was the &tal negotiatkm to carry it by stratagem, entered into with Arnold, the commanding officer of the American troops, uk cpDsequeace of which Major Andr^ lost his life.
The military academy was first established by the govemmeat in 1802, for the admission of a Uaiited munb^ of cadets, to the amount, I believe, of -260. Here are taught all the various sciences that constitute the practical knowledge and edu- catien of a military officer, together with the, dbnties and minute details of a private soldier. Pttri^ a couple of months, in the fine season, they are encamped coi the noble plain outside the college, where they are instructed in the
128 WEST POINT.
various evolutions of pitching and striking tents, and in all the diversified operations of camp discipline.
I was much surprised, on looking over tlie tables exhibiting the number of cadets who had been admitted into and had left this establishment, to perceive the large proportion of those whoj after attaining various degrees of military scienfiej had retired altogether from the service, if so I may term it. It would appear that in two or three instances, taking the numbers according to their classification in states^ one half of the students admitted had resigned and quitted the academy ; and taking the whole period , and the aggregate number admitted, from the foundation of the institution to the year 1828, more than one-third had retired from it before the expiration of the probationary four years, till which they cannot be commissioned, in order to pursue other avocations more congenial to their dispositions. This seems to confirm the intention which I un- derstood had been contemplated by the govern- ment in the formation of the military school,— that of afibrding, in the course of study pursued there, an opportunity to numbers of young men of acquiring a knowledge of the art of war, and of the practical tactics connected with it, although they might never, at the same time, intend mak- ing it their profession; but who would be qualified
WEST POINT. 129
to extend, in some measure, an acquaintance with this necessary science through the different states of the Union where they reside.
This plan accounts, at once, for the whole- sale resignations which the tables announce ; and evmces, in my humble opinion, considerable fore- aght in the government, as to the extensive effects likely to be derived from the academy. I find, however, that Captain Basil Hall, in speaking of the institution, in his work on the United States, entertains a different opinion ; since he Bays, in vol. i. p. 84 : "I suspect it neither will nor can produce much good in the way proposed, and fear, indeed, that it will not have the effect of diffusing, so generally as its friends suppose, any useful knowledge of those severer studies which are followed at West Point." I confess it appears to me to be impossible that so many rtadents, drawn from every state of the republic, and many of whom have advanced themselves to a I'espectable knowledge in the science, should not, wi returning home, though engaging in other em- ployments, spread more or less, through the circles m which they move, the elements of that art which they have learnt at the military school — either in training the militia, or organising more regular ^ps on a sudden emergency. Such a practical application of their knowledge must have, doubt- less, a beneficial influence, to a greater or less
g2
130 WBBT point.
degree^ on the operations of a fotare war. T)» say the yery least of it^ these cadets would be able to bring into efiective exercise, in such tt eventy the experience which they themselves had acquired; and if nothing farther should acerei from the system^ this of itself wonld be a sufficicnl advantage to the general commnnity. I canaot help looking on them as a litde band of milituy schoolmasters^ who, scattered through eveiy ecmier of the States, may be supposed to disseminata tbe learning they have acquired.
As the table to which I have referred wtf not be uninteresting to you — containing a list of all those who have been admitted into the aea* demy, and have left it, from its first institatioo down to 1828 — I have copied it out for you, u follows : —
ADUtaSIOt'S AT THB HILTTABY ACASBHY. 131
JlicLigBD
Actaiuaw
England
Florida
District of Columbia. . Not designated
Total 1289 540 4T7 162 202 39
Willi the baildinga constituliog the estabUeh- ment «t West Point, aod through which I passed, I miut acknowledge that I was disappointed,
132 ARMY OF THE UNITED STATES.
having been accustomed to see, in the public edifices of this country, solidity united with pure taste, great elegance, and superior execution. The former alone of these essentials of fine architec- ture, distinguished the military school. Bat I understand it has not been in very good odour among the people of the United States, on account of the expense incurred in keeping it up, amount- ing annually, I believe, to 116,000 dollars; and to which, probably, may be added a kind of constitutional dislike, inherent in the principles of republican governments, to any thing that savours of a standing army, or that may I)e considered as laying the foundation of one.
It will seem almost incredible to you^ on. casting your eye over a map of the Union, and considering the enormous extent of frontier re- quired to be protected — if reference be alone made to the occasional incursions of the Indiana — to learn that the entire army of the United States does not exceed 6000 men. This is setting no bad example to the States of Europe, the general if not undisturbed tranquillity of which would be, in no slight degree, secured if the small amount of only two or three hundred thousand men were struck off the military roll of some of them, in order to bring it down to the unaspiring standard of a country which is, notwithstanding this mighty contrast with respect to military
FOBT PUTNAM. 133
power/ half-a-dozen times larger, in extent of territory, than that of some of the others.
The point whence the most delightful treat is offered to the eye, among the numberless fine positions of this place, is Fort Putnam ; a post of great natural strength, and of considerable im- portance during the reyolution, erected on a con- liderable elevation above the plain on which the oollege is placed. From this eminence, as also fi^m the terrace below, though in a minor degree, I beheld a scene of grandeur and variety that is *Imost indescribable. Casting your view down- '^ard, you perceive the academy, situated on a spacious and verdant table-land, adorned by a dumber of lovely little cottages, in which the officers of the institution reside, contrasting their irhite sides with the bright green foliage around them. Farther on, you see the hotel ; a hand- ^me building peering aloft over the tides of the Hudson, which sweep around the base of this table-land in a smooth and serpentine course. Along the banks of the river the eye traces a variety of picturesque villas, shaded and backed by a splendid array of finely wooded mountains, towering aloft in every varied form of outline; while the plains beneath present occasional em- bellishments of richly cultivated fields waving with com, and orchards loaded with fruit. Look- ing towards the north, you observe the noble river
134 FORT FUTHAM*
winding his silent and majestic eoarae to the set, in a southerly direction, amid preeipitoos rodn of great loftiness, till loet to sight aromid some projecting headland ; and to the east and west your admiration is powerftdly excited by a tsjbnn scene of extraordinary beauty and magnificenee, swelling and undulating, like immense billows^ in all the richness of unexcelled yerdure.
The ensemble is perfect — casting, not into shade merely, but absolutely into oblivion, the comparatively puny charms of the Delaware, and of every other place that I have yet seen in America. Indeed, as far as this beau moreeoM of exquisite scenery extends— -in reference more to beauty than to grandeur, though comprising both — and of which I have attempted so ex- tremely imperfect a sketch, I must say that I do not recollect, at this moment, any thing supe- rior to it in either Italy or Switzerland; which is bestowing every praise that can possibly be conferred upon it.
I descended to the plain just in time to be present at the evening parade of the cadets, among whom -I saw a number of very fine young men ; and with respect to their kindness of man- ner, and their amiable and gentlemanly attentions to a stranger, I cian speak in the most unqualified terms ; for, had it not been for the studied polite- ness of some of these young gentlemen, whom I
AMIABLE ATTBKTIONS OF THE CADETS. 135
accosted on various occasions, I truly believe I dioold have seen nothing at all of the interior economy of the establishment. Unfortunately for me, the superintendent of it, whom I understood to be a very polite and estimable man, was absent firom West Point; and a letter of introduction which I had brought for him was consequently of no use to me. I had imagined, nevertheless, that the shewing of it to one of the officers whom I casually met might have equally effected my object. However, I was disappointed; nor was I a solitary instance among the various parties then vifflting West Point for the same purpose. Notwithstanding, I found afterwards, in the gene* roos zeal of the cadets, many of whom most lundly walked with me in a variety of directions to